The Offset 5.9+ R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | George Hurley, Mike Yokel |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002 |
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The crux is getting to, protecting and climbing th...
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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 each year. MORE INFO >>> Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a nice TR or runout lead. Just left of Shiva's Dance, Monks in the Gym, and Skink's Lip. This follows a shallow, left-facing dihedral to an angling ledge, move right, and up into another, more-difficult dihedral to a ledge. Rappel 70 feet. Solid for the rating.
Protection Wires, Aliens, Friends to #3. Lightly protected.
BETA PHOTO
| Brass in mouth, getting the first piece in. 5.8 bo...
| Placing several marginal piecesa the bottom of the...
| Same position as the previous photo. The crux for ...
| Luke starting up the tiny corner on the first half...
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By Ivan Rezucha From: Boulder, CO Oct 9, 2005 rating: 5.10a
| Old school 9+ for sure. I first climbed this in '78. Young and foolish? Don't remember, but probably so. No cams then, but did have RPs which are the key gear. Perhaps there were a couple of pins, but it was S back then also. Yesterday, I was maxed out repeating this. The shadows from the morning light made the holds and cracks look bigger than they are, so it seemed like this would be a good warmup. Bad choice! From the top of the left crack the gear was brass good for rightward pull, #0 TCU, tiny sideways brass good to the right. Then at the right crack, tiny brass sideways good for nothing. Then tiny brass that pulled through on the first test. A shallow regular nut in the same opening. Then, a decent brass higher than that. Most of these pieces were fair, but having so many just "fair" pieces in a row was really stressful. Double ropes are useful to prevent sideways pulls on the bottom nuts in the right crack. |
By Ivan Rezucha From: Boulder, CO Oct 15, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| This can be easily top roped by climbing the first pitch of Shiva's Dance to the bolts. Place some directionals as you lower down The Offset. Cams from 0.5 (gray) to #2 (gold) Camalots work. The diagonal cracks between The Offset and Shiva's Dance can be climbed at about 5.9, but getting back onto The Offset is difficult. I made a hard move left at the top of the cracks. You may also be able to do a difficult face move straight up to the crux of The Offset. |
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