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 ADVANCED
Mickey Mouse Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asahi T,S 
Beagle's Ear T 
Boxcar Willie S 
Captain Beyond T 
Culp's Fault T 
Donít Panic It's Organic T 
Eagle's Bier T 
Fake Right, Go Left T 
Flakes T 
Green Dihedral T 
Hamburger Helper T 
Krystal Klyr T,TR 
Lifestream T,S 
Mausoleum T 
Mighty Mouse S 
Oblique Streak T 
Offset, The T,TR 
Parallel Journey T 
Perilous Journey TR 
Perversion T 
Red Dihedral T,S 
Shiva's Dance T 
Sidewinder T 
Simian's Way T 
Skink's Lip T,TR 
Stigmata T,S 
Three Mousketeers, The S 
Unnamed Dihedral T 
Vergin' on Perversion T,S 
Vulcans Don't Lie T 
Zambezi T 
Zambezi (??) T 
Zen Effects S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Offset 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Hurley, Mike Yokel
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The crux is getting to, protecting and climbing th...

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  • Description 

    This is a nice TR or runout lead. Just left of Shiva's Dance, Monks in the Gym, and Skink's Lip. This follows a shallow, left-facing dihedral to an angling ledge, move right, and up into another, more-difficult dihedral to a ledge. Rappel 70 feet. Solid for the rating.

    Protection 

    Wires, Aliens, Friends to #3. Lightly protected.


    Photos of The Offset Slideshow Add Photo
    Same position as the previous photo. The crux for me was the next 6 feet. Climb the "crack" directly or to the left? <br /> <br />Photo by Luke Clarke.
    Same position as the previous photo. The crux for ...
    BETA PHOTO
    Placing several marginal piecesa the bottom of the right crack. There's not much for the hands, but the feet are good. My left foot is on a slanting ramp. You can step up onto this ramp above the left crack and then carefully move right, but on the lead you probably want to stay low, stem to where my right foot is, and then bring your left foot up. <br /> <br />Photo by Luke Clarke.
    Placing several marginal piecesa the bottom of the...
    Brass in mouth, getting the first piece in. 5.8 bouldering gets you to this point which is maybe 10' off the ground. <br /> <br />Photo by Luke Clarke.
    Brass in mouth, getting the first piece in. 5.8 bo...
    Luke starting up the tiny corner on the first half of The Offset. The diagonal cracks on the right can be climbed as an alternative start, but getting back on route is difficult.
    Luke starting up the tiny corner on the first half...

    Comments on The Offset Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 9, 2005
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Old school 9+ for sure. I first climbed this in '78. Young and foolish? Don't remember, but probably so. No cams then, but did have RPs which are the key gear. Perhaps there were a couple of pins, but it was S back then also. Yesterday, I was maxed out repeating this. The shadows from the morning light made the holds and cracks look bigger than they are, so it seemed like this would be a good warmup. Bad choice! From the top of the left crack the gear was brass good for rightward pull, #0 TCU, tiny sideways brass good to the right. Then at the right crack, tiny brass sideways good for nothing. Then tiny brass that pulled through on the first test. A shallow regular nut in the same opening. Then, a decent brass higher than that. Most of these pieces were fair, but having so many just "fair" pieces in a row was really stressful. Double ropes are useful to prevent sideways pulls on the bottom nuts in the right crack.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 15, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This can be easily top roped by climbing the first pitch of Shiva's Dance to the bolts. Place some directionals as you lower down The Offset. Cams from 0.5 (gray) to #2 (gold) Camalots work. The diagonal cracks between The Offset and Shiva's Dance can be climbed at about 5.9, but getting back onto The Offset is difficult. I made a hard move left at the top of the cracks. You may also be able to do a difficult face move straight up to the crux of The Offset.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    1 day ago
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

    Definitely felt like 5.10 to me on lead. My partner was able to take an easier variation to the left at the start of the upper seam, but this is impossible if you want to place gear. And you will want to place gear!

    The pro on this climb was just enough to keep you safe, off the ground, and urge you upwards. That's not to say the climb wasn't scary though. It was awesomely scary as a fall at the traverse to the next crack would send you on quite a ride.

    I placed a .5 and .75 in the good slot around the middle of the first dihedral and this ended up being the gear that most likely would protect the traverse as the gear higher consisted of a red C3 in a shallow horizontal seam (2 lobes engaged, woohoo!) and a large RP in a solution pocket, both of which may have held a dead cat on a still day. Once I reached the next seam though I was able to get 3 decent small nuts and larger gear thereafter. Amazing climb!