|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Randy Vogel, Charles Cole and Steve Anderson, 1984|
|Submitted By:||C Miller on Jan 1, 2005|
|Comments on The Official Route of the 1984 Olympics||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bo Johnston
Dec 10, 2004
|Just climbed this last week as the sun was setting (one of the last to get sun at 4:30PM in December. The route hasn't seen much use considering how close to the road it is and because of this there is some loose sections. The bolts are all bomb proof and NEW; did someone add a couple because in the book it only shows 3?? I'm glad they were there and the 10c crux is just after the 4th bolt. I brought a very light rack for a few horizontals and the two bolts at the top are simply hangers (no rings). Well worth climbing!|
By C Miller
Dec 11, 2004
The 4 bolts on this route were replaced by myself about 1996 or so. No bolts were added, but the pin in the "cave" was replaced with a bolt a little left of where it was.
This route will probably never be overly popular with it's steep smearing and somewhat sporty nature. The route just to the left (Dino Damage) is another fun line with harder moves but a less sustained nature.
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
For some reason I avoided this climb for many years, but finally did it last week.
Good climbing, though the rock is a little crumbly from not much travel. The slab is reasonably well protected by Josh standards, though you'll pause for a moment of contemplation getting into the cave.
The fixed pin in the cave is now a great big bolt (thanks Chris!)
The move that gave me the most fright was the exit move from the cave. With my height 5'9 - I found the move tricky and fairly spicey considering a fall from "the move" would be about 15 feet back and to the side onto a slab.
We climbed Swept Away (11a) the same day and found the 84 Olympics considerably harder and more serious. ymmv.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 22, 2009
|This route has always had a reputation for being something of a sandbag. In fact, a number of Charles Cole's .10c face routes put up around the same time have similar reputations: Surface Tension (.10dR--bad fall at the start), Sexy Sadie (.11a) and Band Saw (on the Old Woman) come to mind.|
From: Northern NM
May 2, 2012
|Seconded this route in the mid 80s. I typically like to lead but I wasn't complaining about following by the time I reached the summit. I thought the upper section was similar to P-2 of 'Welcome to Joshua Tree' in the Comic Book Area. Lines like this add a lot of flavor to the JT climbing experience.|