The Not So Secret Show
||Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 1200', Grade V
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3 [details]|
|FA: ||Troy D. Anderson, Todd Stevens, Tyler Phillips 1998|
|Season: ||Spring /Fall|
|Page Views: ||790|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Nov 3, 2007|
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I have yet to top out a wall with such awesome-nes...
|***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
P1 (5.10) Find a looming, overhanging gash to start in. Chimney/thrash your way up for about a rope length to a nice stance and belay.
P2 (5.9++) Climb up nice cracks then do some facing climbing clipping fixed pitons and bolts to a large grassy ledge.
P3 (5.0) Traverse left about 100 feet to a black streak on the grassy/manzanita ledge.
P4 ( A3) Thin nailing and beaking bring you to a bulge that must be overcome with some trickery (an upside down beak was used here). Cool nailing brings one the belay.
P5 (A1+) The $ pitch. Start up a short bolt ladder to #1 angles and a TCU splitter. Ends at a sloping stance.
P6 (5.8 A2) Pound a KB and some LA's then do a hook move into a right facing corner, make some free moves in the dihedral and gain a great small ledge.
P7 (5.7 A2+) Climb the right traversing bolt ladder, a pendulum brings one into the big obvious left facing corner. Backcleaning methods are recommend until you reach you high point with the bolt ladder. Lots of KB nailing brings you to a outrageous sloping belay stance.
P8 (5.6 A1) Climb the varied splitter that cuts its way through the steep headwall and onto the summit. Eats the cams, don't forget the big cam at the belay; you'll need it!
Descend via The West Rim trail to Angel's Landing trail and cold beer.
This route faces east, so morning sun is nice. I would imagine in the spring when the waterfall is going it would be a spectacular position.
Also this might have the shortest approach of any Zion "bigwall" in the main canyon. Park in the Temple of Sinawava and take the tourist trail back towards the Narrows. At the first option to take a left towards the river do so. Cross the sandy river, walk about 2 minutes up the bank and you're at the base.
Be prepared to be stared at from sunup to sundown from binocular-wielding tour-ons.
A full Iron rack up to #2 angles, including beaks, bring a hook. Full set of cams up to #5 camalot (doubles are nice for the last pitch). All belays are bolted except the bottom of the 3rd pitch. Bring a drill and add a rawl to each belay.