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Palisades Park
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Nose, The T,TR 
Oh My Achin' Head T,TR 
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The Nose 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: Zolen Boogaerts on Feb 23, 2014

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Description 

The Nose starts about 5 feet right of Post Nasal Drip, and climbs the overhanging "Nose", then finishes up the large overhanging crack. This route and Post Nasal Drip finish together.

Start directly underneath the "Nose", climbing a steep but easy and juggy detached block under the nose. To save strength for the crux you can start a few feet to the left and climb up the little gully and come up the back side of the detached block.

Once on top of the block, get ready for the crux. Stand all the way out on the tip of the block and transition to the "Nose". Get both hands in the horizontal on the "Nose" and swing out over the overhang. Get your feet up and throw for a blind 2-3 finger pocket up on the left side of the "Nose". Once you have the finger pocket, it eases up some, but it is sustained and steep until you're over the chicken head feature. From there, it's 5.6 to the top.

Location 

On the very tip of the Island, right in the middle. It is halfway between the two walk-down passages on either side of the Island. Look for the overhanging "Nose", and the inverted staircase of Post Nasal Drip just to the left.

Protection 

Standard Alabama rack. Small to medium cams and nuts. No bolts or anchors. No fixed gear. Plenty of trees at the top for setting up a toprope anchor, but you have to jump the gap to the Island, which can be dicey.


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