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The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress)
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The Nose 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Harvey T Carter, 50s FFA: Doug Snively & Stewart Green, '71?
Page Views: 1,373
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on May 9, 2008

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Getting down with the business....

Description 

This is the obvious crack up to and through the large roof on The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress).

It starts out easy and crumbly, but then the rock gets really good. Fingers and thin hands lead to pretty good feet getting out towards the lip of the roof, then get ready for steep, painful hand jams through the roof. There were a couple fixed nuts above the roof, which I equipped with a cordelette and rap rings (maybe 7 years ago), or you can continue up the corner and cracks above to the top of the pillar. If just going up to the fixed anchor, it's about 80 feet. I guess maybe 180 feet to the top. I assume it would be bad rope drag to do it all in one pitch.

The other cracks on the pillar look ok too, but I've never climbed 'em. The rating given is somewhat old school - others might find it more like 10a/b (?).


Location 

10-15 minutes up and toward the west on the Mid-Columbine Trail. The base of the buttress is basically right on the trail, and The Nose is the obvious large roof directly above you.


Protection 

Standard rack. Fixed wires with rap rings above the roof. I'm not sure what's on top of the pillar for rappelling. It seems like there would be something up there, but it may be just a walk-off. If I go back, I'll go to the top, and update the description.



Photos of The Nose Slideshow Add Photo
The Nose climbs the obvious crack through the large roof.  There is a belay anchor above the roof, or continue to the top.
The Nose climbs the obvious crack through the larg...
Rapping the first pitch!
Rapping the first pitch!
The nose, from up trail.
The nose, from up trail.
Comments on The Nose Add Comment
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By Stewart M. Green
May 12, 2008

This is actually called "The Nose" (Same name as the formation). Harvey Carter did the first ascent of it in the 1950s on aid. Doug Snively and I did the first free ascent of it in 1971. The old pin welded in the crack was there then. We climbed all the way to the top of the buttress, but most folks lower from the pin now. Around the corner to the left is "Alabama Crack." There are two starts to it. Climb up and left from the slab below the Nose roof to a belay shelf below Alabama Crack or from the gully below the crack, climb up and right past a couple old fixed Harvey pitons (5.9) to the belay shelf. Jam the crack 50 feet to a left with a 2-bolt rappel anchor that Brian Shelton and I put in a year ago.

By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 14, 2008

Thanks for the info and corrections, Stewart! I'll update the descriptions above.

By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 15, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Thanks Bo and Stewart for posting the route and sharing the information; this is such a great climb. I feel like the crux is in the dihedral above the roof (i.e. 2nd pitch). Anyway, good to see that other folks may think the route's 5.9+ rating is a pretty honest grade…;-)

By kristoff
From: Colorado Springs
Jul 1, 2008

Thanks Stewart and Bosier.

By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 20, 2009

I climbed this again last night. The roof was definitely more strenuous than I remember it. The cordalette anchor above the roof (which I installed the last time I climbed it) is still in good condition. We did climb the upper pitch, which is good, and in my opinion easier, but it has it's fill of questionable rock, so be careful. The rappel from the top is a couple slings on a bolder/chockstone. We left a couple old biners up there, and rappelled to the west with one 70m rope.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 28, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a really sweet route! If the rock quality were better this would be classic. Great gear moving out over the exposed roof with bomber hand jams and ledges! If you are confident at all on 5.9 give this route a shot because the gear is as good as it gets and you have 25 feet of air beneath you to hit.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 10, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I did the second pitch of this climb the past summer and found the dihedral second pitch to be pretty hard with rattly fingers and no feet. Probably 10- as well.

This climb really is quite unique for the area, and all budding trad climbers should have to do it.

By Logan Berndt
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome climb on some rotten rock, but once you gain the crack, it is awesome! Great line!! Super pumpy with great exposure!

By Newton
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I broke a big hold under the roof yesterday and went for a ride (whee!). Getting to a good roof jam is slightly more difficult now. There's a pretty similar but smaller hold still there, so the nature of the climb wasn't affected too much.

By Matthew Jerousek
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first pitch kind of borders on spectacular. Two nice, .10- cruxes, both pretty different in nature. A tenuous stem and a big pull on rattly fingers onto the slab just beneath the roof, and pulling the roof itself. Once you're off the lower choss and into the business, the rock is good and you can put in gear whenever you want it. The second pitch has some awkward movement and is generally poor quality rock: kitty litter, semi-detached blocks, fully detached blocks..., the works. Oh, and some raptor nests to boot. A bomb, really. If you go for the second pitch, be mindful of all the traffic that's going on on the trail just beneath you. Anything you dislodge is crossing that path. We aided the first couple moves coming out of the belay on the second pitch. I'd guess doing them free would be 10c/d(slightly overhung, left-leaning, rattly-fingers with very few feet leading to smears only), maybe harder? The angle and difficulty relents immediately after you exit the belay, though.