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Gibraltar Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Minute Now T 
Broken Mirror S 
Crank Start S 
Inner Tube Toes TR 
Jabberwocky  S 
Klingon T 
Ladder, The T 
Mid-Face T 
Nose, The T,TR 
Sea of Holes T,TR 
Self Reflection T,S 
Shard, The S 
T-Crack T,TR 
Variation of the Midface T,TR 

The Nose 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,971
Submitted By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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To quote a good friend of mine, "it sure is tough ...

Description 

A short section of steep hand jamming gives way to moderate (5.6) face climbing. Certainly the steepest jams within 100 miles. When toproping, avoid falling early in the roof or potentially swing into the spike.

Approach: Hike down to the bottom of the main block and curve around towards the west slightly. You'll know it when you see it.


Protection 

The pro is good and the crack is reasonably wide. Bolts on top and another set right after the roof.

Update: As of March 2006, the fixed anchors atop the Nose were replaced. The new bolts are a 3/8" Fixe double-wedge expansion bolt and a 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.



Photos of The Nose Slideshow Add Photo
My friend Doug Englekirk on The Nose, Gibraltar, Santa Barbara... just getting out of the .11a crux. <br />Photo Tom Slater   <a href='http://slatervision.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >slatervision.com</a>
My friend Doug Englekirk on The Nose, Gibraltar, S...
from Summit Magazine, 1975
from Summit Magazine, 1975
A nice vertical perspective of The Nose
A nice vertical perspective of The Nose
Just starting the roof section on the Nose.
Just starting the roof section on the Nose.
The new high-visibility anchor atop the overhanging section of "the Nose."
BETA PHOTO: The new high-visibility anchor atop the overhangin...
Bruce Levine nears the top of arete above the Nose at Gibraltar. <br /> <br />
Bruce Levine nears the top of arete above the Nose...
Ah My Feet Fell Out!
Ah My Feet Fell Out!
Comments on The Nose Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 7, 2007

Hooray for the new anchor!

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Sep 13, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Now someone has added what appear to be two 1/2" Rawls with chains at the very top. These match the new HIGHLY visible chains that now grace the wall just above the end of the overhanging crack--there always were 2 bolts and 2 chains, but the older gear has been replaced by much bigger, much shinier stuff.

By Hartley Freedman
Sep 19, 2007

I placed those bolts; they're 12mm x 75mm fixe inox triplex's. i went for a bigger chain link because everyone tr's through those anchors and i wanted to reduce dangerous wear. that's also why they're as long as they are - what i considered to be the best place for a tr anchor combined with the most solid rock. the older gear that i pulled out was not actually climbing bolt material - there was no expansion mechanism. it was just two 3/8 x 6" grade 5 hardware store bolts screwed into drywall sleeves. popped right out with the crowbar. criticism noted though - i'll bring a can of paint next time i go up.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Thanks for your time and energy Hartley.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 18, 2008

Some "old" climbers in town have called The Nose 5.10d for a long time. They all seem ambivalent to an upgrade to 5.11a, however. I think crack-climbing ratings are tricky anyway, especially when it comes to the hand-size issue. I know some 5.12 climbers who can't even START The Nose. Privately, I might agree with the 5.10+ rating. I think it's mentally easier than T-Crack.

By Prezwoodz
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Nov 29, 2008

I found this very hard. I couldn't seem to get past the crux. At the crux I wasn't able to get my second knuckles in the rock because of my hand size. I don't know if that mattered any but jams just were not working.

Great climb I just wish I could have pulled the last move!

By Joe Stern
Aug 12, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Super fun little boulder problem with exposure. Rack: 1 #1, 1 #3 camalot. After a few runs on each, I still think the Nose is easier than T-Crack.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 11, 2010

If you're just considering sheer difficulty of moves, The Nose seems harder than T-Crack, but the latter climb packs so much more wallop in terms of continuous movement and exposure. From a leader's perspective, The Nose is waaaay easier to lead than T-Crack.

By Phil Requist
Jun 19, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'm always up for changing grades if the original grade was inaccurate. I've been doing this climb since 1985. Back then, the locals were definitely well-versed in Yosemite and Joshua Tree cracks and no one ever mentioned up-rating The Nose. To me, Santa Barbara's ratings have always been benchmarked against Joshua Tree. I doubt this would be 11a in JT; I can point out numerous 11a's there that are harder than The Nose - probably multiple 10d's as well. It's not that I have a strong feeling about this, I just don't see the logic in up-rating it.