This is a narrow, south facing buttress that sits a short ways up the Mid-Columbine Trail, which is on the north or right side of the Canyon as you're heading up. It only takes 10-15 minutes to reach the base, which is literally on the trail. The very bottom of this formation is pretty crumbly, but it quickly turns into solid, clean granite. I first noticed this formation from the Mt. Cutler Trail on the other side of the Canyon. The buttress is highlighted by a large roof about half way up, which is named The Nose. The other cracks on this buttress also look good, but I have only climbed the roof. If anyone has additional information about this formation, its name, or any FA info, please let me know, and I will update the description.
Drive up canyon a short ways, and park at the Mid-Columbine Hiking Trail on the right hand side of the road. Walk up the trail about 10-15 minutes to the west and you will see the obvious buttress and big roof directly above you. If you reach the parking area for Mt. Cutler, you've gone too far up canyon. If driving down canyon from Mt. Cutler, this rock looms directly above the road, immediately across from a large, dammed up water hole in the creek. This may help you orient yourself for what you're looking for. I'll try to add some photos soon.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress):
Alabama Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
The Nose 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Featured Route For The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress)
The Nose 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a CO : Colorado Springs : ... : The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine...
This is the obvious crack up to and through the large roof on The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress).It starts out easy and crumbly, but then the rock gets really good. Fingers and thin hands lead to pretty good feet getting out towards the lip of the roof, then get ready for steep, painful hand jams through the roof. There were a couple fixed nuts above the roof, which I equipped with a cordelette and rap rings (maybe 7 years ago), or you can continue up the corner and cracks above to the top ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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