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This is a narrow, south facing buttress that sits a short ways up the Mid-Columbine Trail, which is on the north or right side of the Canyon as you're heading up. It only takes 10-15 minutes to reach the base, which is literally on the trail. The very bottom of this formation is pretty crumbly, but it quickly turns into solid, clean granite. I first noticed this formation from the Mt. Cutler Trail on the other side of the Canyon. The buttress is highlighted by a large roof about half way up, which is named The Nose. The other cracks on this buttress also look good, but I have only climbed the roof. If anyone has additional information about this formation, its name, or any FA info, please let me know, and I will update the description.
Drive up canyon a short ways, and park at the Mid-Columbine Hiking Trail on the right hand side of the road. Walk up the trail about 10-15 minutes to the west and you will see the obvious buttress and big roof directly above you. If you reach the parking area for Mt. Cutler, you've gone too far up canyon. If driving down canyon from Mt. Cutler, this rock looms directly above the road, immediately across from a large, dammed up water hole in the creek. This may help you orient yourself for what you're looking for. I'll try to add some photos soon.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress):
Alabama Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
The Nose 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Featured Route For The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress)
Alabama Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a CO : Colorado Springs : ... : The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine...
This comment is from Stewart Green from the Nose page: "Around the corner to the left [of the Nose] is "Alabama Crack." There are two starts to it. Climb up and left from the slab below the Nose roof to a belay shelf below Alabama Crack or from the gully below the crack, climb up and right past a couple old fixed Harvey pitons (5.9) to the belay shelf. Jam the crack 50 feet to a [ledge] with a 2-bolt rappel anchor that Brian Shelton and I put in a year ago."I climbed this today by climbing up t...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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