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Stonehouse Pond
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Geezer Pleaser T 
Amazing Schlingazi, The T,S 
Bald Man In A Boat S 
Barrington Hot Pocket S 
barrington levy TR 
BBB route, The T,S 
Day After My Birthday ( is not my birthday mum), The S 
Desperation T,S 
Down By Law S 
Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal T,S 
Hymie's Last Stand aka Karin's Route T,S 
Joke Book T 
Luna S 
Moe Howard Died For Our Sins S 
Nose , The T 
Roost, The T,TR 
Sicilian Olympics S 
Trundle Drunk Express T 

The Nose  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown, Joe Cote?
Page Views: 1,032
Submitted By: WillCarey on Jan 12, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: A climber midway on The Nose (5.8).

Description 

The obvious rounded arete that forms the center divider for the cliff.
Mostly if not all fixed gear (bolts and pins)

Location 

Center of the cliff.
Starts off of the upper launch pad.

Protection 

Bolts and Pins
Maybe a few pieces?


Photos of The Nose Slideshow Add Photo
My first ever outdoor climb! 04-14-2014
My first ever outdoor climb! 04-14-2014
begining
begining
My first ever outdoor climb! 04-14-2014
My first ever outdoor climb! 04-14-2014
bring a .5 for the last horizontal
bring a .5 for the last horizontal
Kellie Barr-Foster
Kellie Barr-Foster

Comments on The Nose Add Comment
Show which comments
By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Sep 16, 2012

Yes! This felt 5.8 to me. Always thought this was 5.6 and was like damn! Beautiful route!
By burlap submariner
Sep 16, 2012

that's what todd swain's old guide said as well, I dont buy it, the moves just getting to the first piece of gear are 5.7R at best, the crux is an awkward step up at the second bolt, beautiful route in a great setting.
By chinos
Sep 18, 2012

i agree with burlap, no 5.6! maybe i was climbing the route wrong but it felt all of 5.8 to me...
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 20, 2012

I'll back up that every inch of an .8.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
May 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My first 5.8 trad lead, without me even knowing it! I always knew it was stiff, but didn't give it much thought.

Fun route, the bottom can be semi-protected by a red tri-cam in the flaring flake. After a few moves you can lean left and place a small C4 or TCU in a good flake. Maybe not R, but also not your standard protected route.
By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Sep 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

trad lead...did you just forgo the bolts? last time I did this route I'm pretty sure it was bolted the whole way...unless I was on something else. or perhaps the bolts were chopped?