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The Northwest Passage

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'Lectra Crack T 
Boar War S 
Cozened Stone S 
Double Creature Feature T 
Double D's S 
Forty Six and 2 S 
Friend Zone, The S 
Lateralus S 
Lord's Prayer, The S 
Pretty Good Face S 
Very Nice Crack T 

The Northwest Passage  


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Location: 43.80545, -71.84486 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,465
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on Aug 9, 2013
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Description 

Up hill from the Northwest Territories, just left of the Prudential Crag, there is a steep gully with routes on either side. Mostly known for Very Nice Crack in the past, or as an obscure way to get to the top of the hill, the Northwest Passage has been getting some recent new routing activity. As such, it is getting a heading of its own and a few routes formerly placed within the Northwest Territories or Prudential, like Very Nice Crack and Boar War are now organized here.

The Passage is a nice place to get away from the crowds, with a mixture of grades and styles, with some quality routes hidden here. Also, since it is near the trail heading to Prudential and the higher crags, the long 5.9+, Cozened Stone, makes a good stop for a warm-up for harder routes.

Low on the right side of the gully, which is the left side of the Prudential formation, off a ledge above the lower Prudential wall, are three sport routes; two twelves, The Boar War and Double Ds 12b, which tackles the bulging roof and cool face above, and the above mentioned Cozened Stone.

A little higher up, to the left of the passage proper, is a short cave like area, which is great for escaping a passing shower or as a place to drop your extra stuff before heading higher. If you follow the stone steps to the right around the cave, above is a cluster of five routes centered around Very Nice Crack, that begin off the ledge, including Dave Quinn's great technical crimpy face route Forty Six and 2 and a couple of short bouldery 5.11s.

If you make the effort to continue up the gully a little more, near the top are two quality lines on the left side, 'Lectra Crack 5.9+ (worth bringing the handful of gear you need) and a new 12a bolted face climb Lateralus.

Note - If you are trying to hike around to above the Summit Crag, and not already up in the gully, rather than taking the passage, you would probably be better taking the trail hooking left under the cave and around right up an easy slab up onto the ridge. It brings you up above Flea Surgeon. From there you are on your own :)

Getting There 

Follow the trail leading west through the Blackjack Boulders towards the Northwest Territories crag. Continue heading up like you were going to Prudential, but as you are coming up underneath it, hook a left up the stone steps. To get to the higher portions continue carefully, making you way up the steep gully, or, alternatively, if you are already at the Asylum, walk out to its far left side and drop into an exposed goat path (Careful! You are above the Prudential) that will swing you into it half way up.

Beyond the mouth of the gully is definitely not an area for small children or dogs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.4 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Northwest Passage:
Cozened Stone   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Very Nice Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad   
Pretty Good Face   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport   
The Friend Zone   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 35'   
Browse More Classics in The Northwest Passage

Featured Route For The Northwest Passage
Chris Smith at the crux.

The Lord's Prayer 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  NH : Rumney : The Northwest Passage
When you hit the Very Nice Crack wall, go left and start behind a big boulder. Stick-clip, then follow the right-angling crack/seam past a low boulder problem, a mantle move, and a technical crux. My high school friend Jason "Lord" Peterson flew in from Alaska for a visit and started cleaning it but decided it was too hard....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Comments on The Northwest Passage Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 9, 2013
I am moving a few routes that have been formerly placed in NW Territories and Prudential crag to correspond with the plan for the next edition of the Rumney Guide.

The gully is pretty sketchy right now, with trail work just starting, cleaning and trundling, so I don't really recommend visiting until later into the fall.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 9, 2013
There are now two brand new bolted routes just left of the Boar War, a Dave Quinn 12b? that takes on the roof and a long thoughtful 5.9 to the left of it put up by Chloe Quinn called the Cozened Stone. The bolted line just right of 'Lectra Crack is a new 12a of mine that is pretty nice (like a shorter Venus on a Halfshell) I need to tack a flake though before it is open for business so the big boys don't rip it off and ruin the climb, so hold off getting on it right away please. I'll post it up when it is ready.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 9, 2013
The newish line immediately left (DQ project?) of Boar War looks f'n HARD! There was something else further up the hill that looked really cool. It was wet when I was on Swedish Girls so I didn't get a chance to feel either of them out.
By David Quinn
Sep 6, 2013
Cozened Stone,5.9 80+' (Chloe's route, probably one of the best 9's I've climbed @ Rumney, very tricky and deceptive, as the name implies)& Double D's, 5.12b (?, "I really have no idea") have been climbed and are both open. Still cleaning on them though, (if it ever stops F#%king raining). both really good! Double D's hasn't seen a 2nd ascent that I know of.

DQ
By ward smith
Sep 23, 2013
Cozenstone definitely gets two stars; looks easy and not that great from the ground, but it is much harder and more interesting than it appears. Hoping to get on Double D next weekend.

Ward
By S. Neoh
Sep 24, 2013
Mark, is your .12a "ready"?
After all the "buzz", how can one NOT do 'Lectra Crack too ? :)
By David Quinn
Sep 30, 2013
Congrats to Tim Deroehn for bagging the 2nd ascent of my new route "Double D's" in just 2 goes! Very impressive!
Also congrats Mark on a quick send of your new 12a at the top of the Passage.
By S. Neoh
Sep 30, 2013
Congrats all around!
Sorry I missed spending the day up there with you all; I am sure it was a grand party!