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The North Walls

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alaska Highway T 
Astrologger T 
Blood Meridian T 
Calling, The T 
Chilkoot Pass T 
Gone Surfin' T 
New Life T 
North Star T 
Parallel Passages T 
Polaris T 
Public Image T 
Yukon Gold T 
Unsorted Routes:

The North Walls  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 49.6876, -123.1352 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 40,929
Administrators: Nate Ball, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jun 30, 2008

67° | 45°

68° | 43°

67° | 48°

57° | 45°

63° | 50°

67° | 51°
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The dark, north facing section of the Chief left of Angel's Crest and the North North Gully holds some of the area's hardest, purest and longest free climbs. Testpieces like Alaska Highway and The Calling make this the realm of the honed. Some slightly more accessible pitches can be found along with some single pitches routes.

The wall is split horizontally at mid-height by the Zodiac ledge, which can be reached by any of the long routes that start from the ground, or by scrambling up from the far left side.

The north facing aspect can make this a cool place in the heat, but also makes it slower to dry and shortens the spring and fall season compared to the rest of the chief. Expect a little extra dirt and munge than other areas on The Chief.

Getting There 

Approach as for Angel's Crest, but once at the base, head up the gully a touch further until you are on a very flat boulder with a cairn indicating a rough trail that heads left under the wall. This area isn't well traveled so the trails are rough and prone to overgrow or be hidden by seasonal debris.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.5 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Walls:
NORTH NORTH ARETE   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 800'   
Parallel Passages   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   
New Life   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 350'   
Astrologger   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Alaska Highway   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, 5 pitches, 550'   
Polaris   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1100'   
The Calling   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
North Star   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The North Walls

Featured Route For The North Walls
Second pitch

Alaska Highway 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a  North America : Canada : ... : The North Walls
Alaska Highway ascends an imposing system of overhanging corners and chimneys...When arriving at the belay after the second pitch, try and recall if you've done aid pitches that took as long to finish, then think of Steve "Roadie" Seats soloing this pitch. This route deserves its reputation. Not so much because p2 is the hardest pitch you'll ever climb, but because few pitches will challenge your repertoire of granite trickery as this. Improv at its finest.Pitch one begins with some steep arbor...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on The North Walls Add Comment
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By Dru
Apr 21, 2015
There was a large rockfall on April 19th 2015 from the top of Chilkoot Pass which destroyed the upper sections of routes from The Calling to Yukon Gold. Debris spread across the base and totally destroyed an area stretching from Parallel Passages to the Angels Crest trail. Best to avoid the whole area for now until things stabilize.
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