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The North Forty

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace in the Hole S 
Action Hotdog S 
Adult Supervision S 
African Herbman S 
Around the Fur S 
Big Top S 
Brand New S 
Bulb, The S 
Caught in the Closet Again S 
Chica Bonito S 
Class clown T 
Controversy, The S 
Corn Grinder S 
Cotton Candy S 
Count Chalkula S 
Cow Killer T 
Cows in the Mist S 
Crab Louse S 
Crimp Scampi S 
Dancing Bears T 
Dancing Outlaw S 
Dos Hermanos S 
Dreadlock Holiday T 
Eighteen Inches S,TR 
Emmas's Got a Mullet S 
Fat Hand S 
First Normal Form S 
Flashbacks T 
Frankenberry S 
Girth Hitch S 
Greatest Show on Earth, The S 
Green Goblin S 
Groovy S 
Hangs a Little to the Left S 
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter S 
Harry Potter S 
Honorary Brave S 
Horny Goatweed S 
Hurricane, The S 
Ides of March, The S 
Jackhole S 
Kurbcheck S 
Lamb Chops S 
Lavender Eye S 
Leonid S 
Lion Tamer S 
Little Manly Man S 
Little Miss Giggles T 
Local Hebrew S 
Love Slave S 
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? S 
Mefloquine Dreams S 
Mine Mine Mine S 
Molt S 
More Better S 
Narwhal T,TR 
Newton County Mentality S 
Paul's Redemption S 
Perfect Hair Forever S 
Petrified S 
Piratas Putas  S 
Playing Hooky S 
Poetry in Goshen T 
Private Property S 
Pulp Fiction S 
Scrambled Eggs S 
Seaana Says S 
Season of the Storm S 
Smooth Criminal S 
Something for CiCi S 
Sonny Jim S 
Sonrisa Loca S 
Sons of the Soil S 
Sour Girl S 
Spam S 
Stiff-Neked Fools T,S 
Strongman S 
summer rain S 
Sundial S 
Too Short for the Short Bus S 
Trapeze Artist S 
Tres Equis S 
Tunnel Vision S 
Uncle Grandfather T 
Webster's Part S 
Webster's Partner S 
Zeke's Didge Dance S 
Zeppelin T 
Unsorted Routes:

The North Forty  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.00881, -93.29549 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,450
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeremiah Wells on Mar 14, 2007
Forecast:
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Mitch on Crimp Scampi, Memorial Day Weekend, 25 Ma...

Description 

The Forty wall is full of mainly sport routes with some trad here and there. It is easy to get to and has routes from 5.6 to 5.12c. It's not the tallest wall on the ranch (as short as 35 feet in some places) but has plenty of routes to make up for it. The average climb takes 6 draws plus 2 for the anchors.

Getting There 

If your on the ranch just head up the road heading north past the campsites, then follow the road untill the path turns right. This starts the North Forty, everything to your north is part of this area. Most of the North Forty boulders are just south of the cliff line.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.9 miles from here

88 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',35],['2 Stars',39],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',20],['5.8',19],['5.9',15],['5.10',13],['5.11',6],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Forty:
Cotton Candy   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 60'   
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   
The Greatest Show on Earth   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
African Herbman   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 55'   
Green Goblin   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 65'   
The Controversy   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 65'   
Leonid   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   
Strongman   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   
First Normal Form   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 65'   
Private Property   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   
Sour Girl   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 35'   
Season of the Storm   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 65'   
Crimp Scampi   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Love Slave   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Sonny Jim   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Big Top   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   
Lavender Eye   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Fat Hand   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Mine Mine Mine   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
Corn Grinder   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in The North Forty

Featured Route For The North Forty
Down low on Crimp Scampi.

Crimp Scampi 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
Two cruxes and sustained 10 climbing make this route a must do on the North Forty. Probably the best route of its grade at the Ranch! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AR

Comments on The North Forty Add Comment
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By gabe14
Mar 21, 2011
OK everyone who's going to HCR at some time. If you want a 5 bolt route (4F) then you need to try this new route that is just left of Love Slave . Its unnamed and not in the guide book yet, but it will be a classic! The movement is great and the sequence is awesome! I dont know what i would grade it, but the guy who i saw working it said he thinks 5.12b/c. I did a entirely different sequence and moves then him, and i still think its a 5.12 something. So go try it!