Mitch on Crimp Scampi, Memorial Day Weekend, 25 Ma...
The Forty wall is full of mainly sport routes with some trad here and there. It is easy to get to and has routes from 5.6 to 5.12c. It's not the tallest wall on the ranch (as short as 35 feet in some places) but has plenty of routes to make up for it. The average climb takes 6 draws plus 2 for the anchors.
If your on the ranch just head up the road heading north past the campsites, then follow the road untill the path turns right. This starts the North Forty, everything to your north is part of this area. Most of the North Forty boulders are just south of the cliff line.
Weather station 11.9 miles from here
109 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',39],['2 Stars',51],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The North Forty
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Forty:
Leonid 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 60'
Sour Girl 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 35'
Love Slave 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Sonny Jim 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Big Top 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 65'
Lavender Eye 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Fat Hand 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Featured Route For The North Forty
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Mar 21, 2011
OK everyone who's going to HCR at some time. If you want a 5 bolt route (4F) then you need to try this new route that is just left of Love Slave . Its unnamed and not in the guide book yet, but it will be a classic! The movement is great and the sequence is awesome! I dont know what i would grade it, but the guy who i saw working it said he thinks 5.12b/c. I did a entirely different sequence and moves then him, and i still think its a 5.12 something. So go try it!