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The North Forty

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little Moore S 
Ace in the Hole S 
Action Hotdog S 
Adult Supervision S 
African Herbman S 
Around the Fur S 
Big Top S 
Brand New S 
Bulb, The S 
Caught in the Closet Again S 
Chica Bonita S 
Chica Bonito S 
Class clown T 
Controversy, The S 
Corn Grinder S 
Cotton Candy S 
Count Chalkula S 
Cow Killer T 
Cows in the Mist S 
Crab Louse S 
Crimp Scampi S 
Dancing Bears T 
Dancing Outlaw S 
Dos Hermanos S 
Dreadlock Holiday T 
E-Kat S 
Eighteen Inches S,TR 
Emmas's Got a Mullet S 
Fat Hand S 
First Normal Form S 
Flashbacks T 
Frankenberry S 
Girth Hitch S 
Greatest Show on Earth, The S 
Green Goblin S 
Groove Tube T 
Groovy S 
Hangs a Little to the Left S 
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter S 
Harry Potter S 
Honorary Brave S 
Horny Goatweed S 
Hurricane, The S 
Ides of March, The S 
Jackhole S 
Jewell Always Smiles S 
Jewell Says  S 
Kurbcheck S 
Lamb Chops S 
Lampe Land S 
Lavender Eye S 
Leonid S 
Lion Tamer S 
Little Manly Man S 
Little Miss Giggles T 
Local Hebrew S 
Love Slave S 
Marek's Golden Way T 
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? S 
Mefloquine Dreams S 
Mine Mine Mine S 
Missing Rack T 
Molt S 
More Better S 
Narwhal T,TR 
Newton County Mentality S 
Ojos Locos S 
Owen's Best Buddy S 
Paul's Redemption S 
Perfect Hair Forever S 
Petrified S 
Piratas Putas  S 
Playing Hooky S 
Poetry in Goshen T 
Poison Ivy Route, The T 
Private Property S 
Pulp Fiction S 
Roman Says S 
Roman's Empire S 
Romaniac, The S 
Scrambled Eggs S 
Seaana Says S 
Season of the Storm S 
Serfs and Lords S 
Smooth Criminal S 
Some Moore Better S 
Something for CiCi S 
Something for E-Kat S 
Something for Jewell S 
Something for Roman S 
Sonny Jim S 
Sonrisa Loca S 
Sons of the Soil S 
Sour Girl S 
Spam S 
Stiff-Neked Fools T,S 
Strongman S 
summer rain S 
Sundial S 
Too Short for the Short Bus S 
Trapeze Artist S 
Tres Equis S 
Tunnel Vision S 
Uncle Grandfather T 
Webster's Part S 
Webster's Partner S 
Zeke's Didge Dance S 
Zeppelin T 
Unsorted Routes:

The North Forty  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.00881, -93.29549 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 56,823
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeremiah Wells on Mar 14, 2007
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Description 

The Forty wall is full of mainly sport routes with some trad here and there. It is easy to get to and has routes from 5.6 to 5.12c. It's not the tallest wall on the ranch (as short as 35 feet in some places) but has plenty of routes to make up for it. The average climb takes 6 draws plus 2 for the anchors.

Getting There 

If your on the ranch just head up the road heading north past the campsites, then follow the road untill the path turns right. This starts the North Forty, everything to your north is part of this area. Most of the North Forty boulders are just south of the cliff line.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.9 miles from here

108 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',37],['2 Stars',47],['1 Star',22],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',23],['5.8',27],['5.9',19],['5.10',18],['5.11',6],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Forty:
Cotton Candy   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 60'   
African Herbman   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 55'   
The Greatest Show on Earth   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
Green Goblin   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 65'   
Lion Tamer   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 65'   
The Controversy   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 65'   
Leonid   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   
First Normal Form   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 65'   
Strongman   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   
Private Property   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 55'   
Season of the Storm   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 65'   
Sour Girl   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 35'   
Crimp Scampi   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sonny Jim   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Love Slave   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Big Top   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 65'   
Lavender Eye   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Fat Hand   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Mine Mine Mine   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
Corn Grinder   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in The North Forty

Featured Route For The North Forty
Al finishing up a great day at HCR with Sour Girl.

Sour Girl 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
Climb pockets at the start, then traverse right to a roof finish. Cleaning the route can be a challenge unless someones seconds the route on toprope....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR

Comments on The North Forty Add Comment
Show which comments
By gabe14
Mar 21, 2011
OK everyone who's going to HCR at some time. If you want a 5 bolt route (4F) then you need to try this new route that is just left of Love Slave . Its unnamed and not in the guide book yet, but it will be a classic! The movement is great and the sequence is awesome! I dont know what i would grade it, but the guy who i saw working it said he thinks 5.12b/c. I did a entirely different sequence and moves then him, and i still think its a 5.12 something. So go try it!