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The North Forty

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace in the Hole 
Action Hotdog 
Adult Supervision 
African Herbman 
Around the Fur 
Big Top 
Brand New 
Bulb, The 
Caught in the Closet Again 
Chica Bonito 
Class clown 
Controversy, The 
Corn Grinder 
Cotton Candy 
Count Chalkula 
Cow Killer 
Cows in the Mist 
Crab Louse 
Crimp Scampi 
Dancing Bears 
Dancing Outlaw 
Dos Hermanos 
Dreadlock Holiday 
Eighteen Inches 
Emmas's Got a Mullet 
Fat Hand 
First Normal Form 
Girth Hitch 
Greatest Show on Earth, The 
Green Goblin 
Hangs a Little to the Left 
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter 
Harry Potter 
Honorary Brave 
Horny Goatweed 
Hurricane, The 
Ides of March, The 
Lamb Chops 
Lavender Eye 
Lion Tamer 
Little Manly Man 
Little Miss Giggles 
Local Hebrew 
Love Slave 
Meck, Mecke, What's the Difference? 
Mefloquine Dreams 
Mine Mine Mine 
More Better 
Newton County Mentality 
Paul's Redemption 
Perfect Hair Forever 
Piratas Putas  
Playing Hooky 
Private Property 
Pulp Fiction 
Scrambled Eggs 
Seaana Says 
Season of the Storm 
Smooth Criminal 
Something for CiCi 
Sonny Jim 
Sonrisa Loca 
Sons of the Soil 
Sour Girl 
Stiff-Neked Fools 
summer rain 
Too Short for the Short Bus 
Trapeze Artist 
Tres Equis 
Tunnel Vision 
Uncle Grandfather 
Webster's Part 
Zeke's Didge Dance 
Unsorted Routes:

The North Forty 

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Location: 36.00881, -93.29549 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jeremiah Wells on Mar 14, 2007
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The Forty wall is full of mainly sport routes with some trad here and there. It is easy to get to and has routes from 5.6 to 5.12c. It's not the tallest wall on the ranch (as short as 35 feet in some places) but has plenty of routes to make up for it. The average climb takes 6 draws plus 2 for the anchors.

Getting There 

If your on the ranch just head up the road heading north past the campsites, then follow the road untill the path turns right. This starts the North Forty, everything to your north is part of this area. Most of the North Forty boulders are just south of the cliff line.

86 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',42],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North Forty:
Cotton Candy   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Sport, 60'   
Harry Butthole Pussy Potter   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   
African Herbman   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 55'   
The Greatest Show on Earth   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport   
Green Goblin   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 65'   
The Controversy   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Sport, 65'   
First Normal Form   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 65'   
Strongman   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   
Leonid   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 60'   
Private Property   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 55'   
Sour Girl   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 35'   
Season of the Storm   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 65'   
Crimp Scampi   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Sonny Jim   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Big Top   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 65'   
Love Slave   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Lavender Eye   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mine Mine Mine   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 50'   
Fat Hand   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Corn Grinder   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in The North Forty

Featured Route For The North Forty
private property - route photo

Private Property 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a  AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty
Start on a large flake and climb past a short crack and an overhang. Finish on large holds to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in AR

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By gabe14
Mar 21, 2011

OK everyone who's going to HCR at some time. If you want a 5 bolt route (4F) then you need to try this new route that is just left of Love Slave . Its unnamed and not in the guide book yet, but it will be a classic! The movement is great and the sequence is awesome! I dont know what i would grade it, but the guy who i saw working it said he thinks 5.12b/c. I did a entirely different sequence and moves then him, and i still think its a 5.12 something. So go try it!