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The North End
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Sharp Or B Flat 
Bird's Nest 
Childs Play 
Exiles in Babylon 
Generation X 
Jack The Ripper 
Kiddy Crack 
Knights in White Satin 
Mantleshelf Problem 
Merrill's Variation 
Possessed, The 
Post Mortem 
Raising The Roof 
Recluse 
Recluse Traverse 
Roof aka The Corner, The 
Slot, The 
They Died Laughing 
Thresher 
Unsorted Routes:

The North End 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Thunderstorm
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Rain Showers
66° | 43°
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63° | 37°
Chance of Rain
57° | 34°
Overcast
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BETA PHOTO: The north end (right side) on a spring day....

Description 

The North End is another great place to hone your skills for longer climbs or catch a quick session while making friends with the locals. Cracks abound in this section and there is something for everyone from Childs Play 5.5 to The Possesses 5.11d and almost every grade between. The routes are typically no more than 100ft so you can count on a single rope getting you on to and off of your climb. Unfortunately bolt wars have been raging here in the last year taking a bit away for the appeal and formerly layed back attitude of this section. Hopefully this will be settled soon so we will be able to climb knowing what we will be facing for anchor options at the top.

Classics include Birds Nest (5.9), They Died Laughing (5.9), The Slot (5.10b), and Recluse (5.10d). This was another area that saw major free climbing efforts by Henry Barber, he was involved in the first free accents of all of those routes listed above and more. Gotta respect “Hot Henry”…


Getting There 

Drive down the road at the base of the cliff until just before the orange gate. Park here. You should be able to see the cliff from your car. Find the trail and begin the long hard approach. 1 minute should get you there.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The North End:
Kiddy Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
They Died Laughing   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
The Roof aka The Corner   5.9     Trad, 90 feet   
Bird's Nest   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Raising The Roof   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   
The Slot   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Recluse   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Jack The Ripper   5.11a/b PG13     Trad, 125 feet   
The Possessed   5.12a     Trad, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in The North End

Featured Route For The North End
The Slot follows the thin crack on the left and then breaks right to join They Died Laughing (5.9), you can see clean section where it does....

The Slot 5.10b  NH : Cathedral Ledge : The North End
Get ready for some finger-lockin' fun!! The Slot climbs the thin crack with the distinctive pod about 2/3 up and joins the last 10 feet of They Died Laughing. Although it is a little stout in the grade, it is, nonetheless, a good test of finger fortitude! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of The North End Slideshow Add Photo
The far left side of the north end.... The obvious roof is...The Roof....

BETA PHOTO: The far left side of the north end.... The obvious...