The Norseman 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Mark Cartier |
| Submitted By: | peachy spohn on Jul 16, 2008 |
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Beacon Rock is only open to climbers from July 15th through February 2nd due to peregrine falcon nesting. MORE INFO >>>
From the Washington Park's Page Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing except where it interferes with nesting raptors, primarily on the south face. The presence of the falcon nest requires that the south face be closed to technical rock activity February 1 to mid-July annually; open the rest of the year. The east face is closed year-round due to environmental sensitivity. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route ascends up the buttress on the right side of Big Ledge. The crux comes just a few bolts below the anchors and involves tension moves around the corner. Yet, the route has a difficult section above the second bolt too. The position is amazing and the bolts are just far enough apart to keep you on your toes. . With more ascents this already quality climb could be amazing
Location The best way to approach The Norseman is to climb either Free For All into Dod's Jam, or just Dod's Jam. Once you reach the Big Ledge, above the tree pitch on Dod's Jam, look for the bolted climb on the right buttress/arete of the ledge system.
Protection Bolts. The first 15-20 feet takes small cams or nuts.
By peachy spohn Jul 28, 2011
| I revisited the Norseman yesterday and for anyone climbing at this grade it is one of the best in the PDX area. It definitely has the BEST position of any 5.12 (a beautiful rounded arete 300 feet off the deck with the Columbia River right there.) It's hard for the grade, but very well protected. Plus, if you get on it soon, you will have the advantage of all my chalk. Get on it! PS, I heard from Jim Opdycke that the route was originally named Sacajawea. |
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