From the Washington State Park's Page [www.parks.wa.gov/474/Beacon-Rock]: Beacon Rock offers excellent opportunities for rock climbing, and is considered to be some of the very best "Traditional Climbing" in the northwest. Climbers do need to be aware of where and when they climb due to management restrictions. Only the NW corner is open to climbing year round. The east face is closed year round due to environmental sensitivity. The rest of Beacon Rock is closed to rock climbing from February 1 to mid July annually to protect sensitive wildlife habitat. Call the park at (509) 427-8265 for more information.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route ascends up the buttress on the right side of Big Ledge. The crux comes just a few bolts below the anchors and involves tension moves around the corner. Yet, the route has a difficult section above the second bolt too. The position is amazing and the bolts are just far enough apart to keep you on your toes. . With more ascents this already quality climb could be amazing
The best way to approach The Norseman is to climb either Free For All into Dod's Jam, or just Dod's Jam. Once you reach the Big Ledge, above the tree pitch on Dod's Jam, look for the bolted climb on the right buttress/arete of the ledge system.
Bolts. The first 15-20 feet takes small cams or nuts.
I revisited the Norseman yesterday and for anyone climbing at this grade it is one of the best in the PDX area. It definitely has the BEST position of any 5.12 (a beautiful rounded arete 300 feet off the deck with the Columbia River right there.) It's hard for the grade, but very well protected. Plus, if you get on it soon, you will have the advantage of all my chalk. Get on it! PS, I heard from Jim Opdycke that the route was originally named Sacajawea.