The Nipple  5.10a

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Type:  Sport, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Mickey Hazelwood Submitted By:  Aaron Hobson on May 30, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bjorn Thorn-Anderson making the mantle move. The l...

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Description 

An exciting climb that's easier than it looks. All the bolts for this route are on the right side of an arete which is quite smooth, but can be clipped from around the corner if needed. There is great exposure as you move from one side to the other following the line of least resistance. The 5th bolt is on the lip of an overhanging lip. Let your feet kick free to really feel the exposure on this climb, then crank up the good holds.

CAUTION: There is an awesome jug (clipping hold too) below the overhang which is a slightly loose block. I don't think it could pop out, but folks should be aware.

Location 

A bolted arete just left of Burning the Candle at Both Ends. It is not on the topo or guidebook and I am unaware of its true-name/first ascent. See Karl Kiser's Comment.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A small wire/cam can protect the initial moves, otherwise there is a 25ft run-out to the first bolt.