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 ADVANCED
7. The Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginners Direct T 
Beginners Easy Variation T 
Beginners Route T 
Booklet, The T 
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 
Dark Horse T 
Fingertip Trip T 
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 
Interloper  T 
Man O War T 
Ninth Wave, The T 
Sea of Holes T 
Slabs Direct T 
Sliding Board T 
Slipshod T 
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 
Standard Route T 
Stop if you Dare T 
Tidal Wave T,S 
Waiting for Comeau T 
Wave Bye Bye T 
Wave Length T 
Wedge T 
White Wilderness T 

The Ninth Wave 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Michael hartrich, Jeff Phesant and Bill Findeson 1974
Page Views: 716
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is perhaps the most obvious route on the Ninth Wave formation on the lower right side of the whitehorse slabs... A very slippery friction route which is convenient to top rope and commiting to lead...

Pitch 1: (5.10a R) From the anchor on the left side below the "wave" head straight up the ridge above (there seems to be some different opinions of where the route goes depending on guidebook choice) Clip a bolt 10 feet up from the anchor and stick your neck out as you run it out to the anchor above the steep swell...

Most people rap from here...

Pitches 4-5: (5.3-5.6) Continue up above the anchor for 4 more pitches of more moderate climbing if your heart desires...However... I think most people would just pat themselves on the back and call it a day after this lead...

Location 

Just left of pitch 2 of Beginners route there is a steep swell that hosts a few very commiting routes all leaving from the same start anchor and finishing on the same anchor as well... This is the one in the middle...

To get to the anchor solo up the moderate friction right of slabbs direct to the swell and clip in...

All the routes are easy to top rope from the anchor...

Protection 

1 bolt and bolted anchors...

Easy to top rope from the anchor...


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008

This route is pretty good and not really that serious. The fall is safe with a good belayer and maybe some reeling in of the rope. i think that the direct start to Interloper is harder.
By burlap submariner
Oct 1, 2009

lee, this route is for shure 9+, I dont really feel like the moves above the sickle are nearly as hard as that of interloper, black jade, or fingertip trip, which are all classic 10- whitehorse slab routes. The Ninth wave is for shure way more run out but any one single techinal move on it is not 5.10. just my opine' but I've climbed lots of the slab route over there.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 1, 2009

glad you added your vote... ive done a good deal of slab my self and to be honest ive never seen a difference between 5.9+ and 5.10 other than on some of Hot Henry's 5.9+ cracks which often feel like 5.10+ haha... anyway i thought 10a seemed right (though i only copied the grade for the jerry handren guide)... perhaps if i take a few more runs on it i will figure out something that makes it feel better...
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Sep 16, 2011

The guide book I've been looking in say's it's 5.9+. Which means 5.10 anyways. ; )
By frank dahlmeyer
From: north conway nh
Sep 16, 2013

onsite today with Bobbo-fun