The NIMBY Factor  5.13a

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Type:  Sport, 60 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  Submitted By:  LeeAB on Feb 15, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

As Mono says in the opening description, this is one of those routes that you will have to aid and brush prior to trying to climb. This neglected route is covered in a fine dust and any positive holds are full of the stuff.

Start up the wall relatively easily past the first couple of bolts. After clipping the 3rd you will be faced with a very difficult sequence that will leave your feet flying and probably you as well. Once you stick the actual crux move you still have a few more hard moves, that can be done one of several different ways, to get to the broken band that runs the length of the wall. Rest well here since that anchor is guarded by a very long move followed by some very insecure climbing on rounded features and a bit of flaky rock, this thing is not in the bag till you clip the chains.

With some more regular attention this thing would be worth another star or two. It's lack of traffic is probably due to the excedingly hard moves around the 3rd bolt.

Location 

First route right of Jump Start, or third route left of the top of the approach trail.

Protection 

8 bolts to a bolted anchor.