The Nickelpup 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | BJ Sbarra, Lynn Sanson |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | BJ Sbarra on Dec 19, 2011 |
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Tracy Wilson below the roof on the Nicklepup.
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Description Start in a shallow corner, then move right at the first bolt. Climb up to a ledge, then follow the crack in a corner to a hand rail. Traverse right, then pull through the roof on huge holds. Ascend easier climbing to the top. It is fun the whole way.
Location This is the next route left of Step Up to the Flake, but before Thin and Crispy. It shares a start with an undone project that goes left.
Protection 10 bolts.
Lucas just above the roof on Nickelpup.
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Pulling the crux.
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| Comments on The Nickelpup |
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By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Dec 19, 2011
| In memory of our dog, Sarah Nicklepup, who died unexpectedly last spring. She loved the Pup Tent! |
By Bryan Gall
From: New Castle, CO
Mar 22, 2012
| It really is a shame to see bolts next to that crack; it would eat up gear, but bolts are convenient. I'd wanted to go up that feature for a while but never found the time. The holds pulling through the roof may be suspect; be careful, that diving board feature seems cemented in well for now, but it feels really spooky trusting it. Sorry about the pup; my dogs have loved main elk too. |
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Mar 23, 2012
| Bryan - For sure the crack could take a couple pieces of gear, but as this is predominantly a sport crag, after talking to several others who have put up routes here, we decided to bolt it.
Also, I pried and hammered on the diving board for a long time, and it seemed quite solid, like the same choss band on Step up to the Flake, Puppy Love, Hanu, etc. Certainly something to keep an eye on though! |
By Brian Wright
From: Glenwood Springs, Co
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| I really enjoyed this route. We did have a little trouble with choss at the bottom of the dihedral. I would recommend a helmet for your belayer. |
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