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The Next Century 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Todd Swain, Paul Ross
Page Views: 4,920
Submitted By: Xavier Wasiak on Jan 15, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Party on The Next Century.

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


The Next Century is on the northern end of the east face of the Mescalito in Pine Creek, to the right of Y2K. The first pitch is 5.8, is surprisingly fun and short, and ends at a bolted anchor. The second pitch is a nice long 5.10 with a few bolts, 3 I believe. The face climbing is sustained on beautiful chocolate sandstone and the pitch is not recommended for the faint of heart. The pitch ends at another bolted anchor. Tom Moulin and I simul-rapped off of 8 m lines and, with rope stretch, reached the ground with 2-3 feet to spare. Recommended.


A few bolts, 3, I think. The rest was smaller gear with a few nuts. I don't think I placed anything larger than a #1 cam on the second pitch. Maybe some larger gear for the first pitch.

Photos of The Next Century Slideshow Add Photo
shot from clearing at base of route 03 07 05
BETA PHOTO: shot from clearing at base of route 03 07 05
Routes on east face of Mescalito.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on east face of Mescalito.
Just after the initial crux section on pitch 2. We...
Just after the initial crux section on pitch 2. We...
Mo higher up on P2
Mo higher up on P2
Although Xavier and I did this route in two really...
BETA PHOTO: Although Xavier and I did this route in two really...
Michael Brewer leading/onsighting crux pitch two.
Michael Brewer leading/onsighting crux pitch two.
Michael Brewer making the crux pitch look easy as ...
Michael Brewer making the crux pitch look easy as ...
Just after the second crux of pitch 2. If you are ...
Just after the second crux of pitch 2. If you are ...
 Crux pitch two.
Crux pitch two.
the route
the route
Crux pitch two.
Crux pitch two.
The amazing second pitch. December 28, 2009.
The amazing second pitch. December 28, 2009.
one of the "easier" sections on upper P2
one of the "easier" sections on upper P2

Comments on The Next Century Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2014
By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 17, 2005

Not a grade VI!! or VS!!! Grade I and maybe S, depending on your comfort level.
By Francis Baker (fran)
From: Las Vegas,NV
Mar 12, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An excelent route. The first pitch is better than it appears. Start on the left side of the chimney, move up a few feet and then left into the crack system. The rest of P1 is obvious. Alone it is a good pitch and a 60m will get you down. The p2 is what this route is all about. I thought it was a face climb!? Two 60m ropes with one rappel down the west side to decend.
By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Mar 13, 2005

re: route description. P2 has four bolts, not three. given the thin pro on the route, if you want to load up the huecos with cams, you could fit pieces a lot bigger than #1. or if you're a bad-ass you can stick with the light rack. im not a bad-ass..

one thing the route has going for it is the rock is bomber. really high quality. makes the occasional move high over pro feel a lot better, i figure.

two folks i asked mentioned 10d for P2. i have no opinion myself.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 4, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Rack for pitch 2...one set of small to medium nuts, 2 blue aliens, 2 red alien2. You might find a spot for something bigger in a heuco, but you don't need it.'d say about 5.10b/c

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 14, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

really good line...my partner made the second pitch look easy. I'd say the slab is .10d, but my experience on .10d slabs is limited. I was able to do it, though...so maybe .10c, who knows?

Anyway, with two ropes, you can do a single rap to a ledge just right of the route and walk off from there. We pulled the ropes enough to reach the base, then pulled from there...less worry about snags.
By Andrew Gomoll
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 21, 2006

thanks for making me sound kick ass vegastradguy. the reality is that this is a sweet route and the pro is fine. (pg at the most) definatly 10d with spectacular delicate moves. bring an array of gear from brass to #3 cam and you're psyched.
By Aaron S
Dec 11, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The red Brock guide lists the second pitch as 100' however our 70m rope came up just a foot or two short of the 1st pitch anchors. Close enough to clip with a sling but two 60m's would be a better idea. I was happy to have a set of camalots to #3.
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Oct 14, 2008

I thought P2 was definitely run-out, albeit on fairly easy climbing. The cruxy moves are early and well-bolted, so if you get past those the rest of the pitch should be a cruise. Contra John, I didn't think this was really a slab climb, more like thin face. Suptertopo puts it at 10d. Real good, whatever it is.
By Josh Audrey
Jan 15, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

doubles to red alien single to #2 cam, thoughtful moves take u all the way!
By Jon Richard
From: St. Louis, Missouri
Apr 22, 2009

Great Climb! I don't think it is deserving of an R rating. I'd say maybe PG. The slab/face is way fun and this route should not be missed!
By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Great climb, great gear. No way this is PG, let alone R. With a 70m cord you can do it as one pitch with little rope drag.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 11, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

An amazing line on bullet proof rock. A must do for those who like careful, delicate, thought provoking climbing at this grade. Through the retrospectroscope this is not as run out as it looks - but it seems otherwise until you are right on the gear placement. If you drift off the perfect line (easy to do on stone with so many holds) it is R rated, if not then the gear is fine - bring some small brass, a few wires and a few cams 1/2 inch to 2.5 inches.
By Socka
From: Bloomington, IN
Dec 1, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Fantastic rock and gear..if you go straight and not zig-zag I suggest at least .10c PG13 three stars
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Apr 21, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The guide definitely suggest too much gear. Singles is fine with tri-cams and nuts to supplement. Lots of cool pods that take tri-cams perfectly and some really good stopper placements I am assuming where the guide is suggesting cams in that range. The second pitch is one of the best trad pitches at the grade at RR. Lots of exposure and fantastic movement. P2 looks so improbable from the belay which made it even more exciting!
By Cunning Linguist
Jun 3, 2012

Cams down to black alien helpful, it's not over after the slab!
R rating is nonsense, single from 00-3, full set wires (mostly small), maybe a couple extra small cams for people pushing themselves on this one do fine. Thoughtful, not scary climbing.

Great climbing and stone. Good example of how a few bolts can allow a classic to happen, without the bolts this thing would never get touched.
By Phil Esra
Apr 4, 2013

Agreed with most above--feels heady, but not R. Under-appreciated. Maybe not one of the 5 best lines in RR, but definitely top tier. 3.6 stars, not a tenth less than that, that's my final offer.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

P1 is fun. P2 feels spicy, but never dangerous. Great route but not 4 stars (see Parental Guidance near Dark Shadows).
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Oct 14, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A 70m rope will not get you down this route, ours didn't reach close enough to clip the anchor. An 80m will make it though.
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