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The New Vernacular 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Thompson & Lin
Page Views: 604
Submitted By: david goldstein on Sep 20, 2006
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Description 

The guidebook raves about this route (the author was the first ascensionist), and while it has some excellent climbing and excellent rock, it is basically a discontinuous squeeze job from which it is possible at several points to step over to Natty Dread or Gastoned Again.

There is a hard move at the first bolt, then easy climbing. There is a much harder than anything else crux passing a looks-like-the-crux bulge around the fifth bolt which can be avoided at 5.11 by making a move left to ND, a move up and then back R to TNV (TNV is 11+ done this way). Some much easier climbing follows to a roof. From the roof to the top is an excellent passage of thin off-vertical face climbing.


Location 

This is on the Mammoth Wall just left of the Gastoned Again corner.


Protection 

11 bolts.



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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I have to disagree with the description here. Though it does have options of stepping left or right to either of the neighboring routes, I thought that climbing the route directly felt very natural and not forced at all. Solid for the grade.

By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Apr 8, 2011

Dave, my friend! That’s a hilarious rendition of the route! “Discontinuous squeeze job”?? LOL! Fair enough, but why anyone would want to bail left from the clean rock and entertaining movement on the second crux to feed on the bat/bird shit choked flake on Natty Dread is beyond me. While there’s no doubt that skirting crux #2 on can be done, the same could be said for countless routes at Shelf and tens of thousands of routes across the county, which seems to me to be missing the point. Given the route, as equipped, offers an entertaining and action packed line up pristine excellent rock, why not climb it the way it was intended? It's all about the fun, no?

See ya sometime soon! Be well!
-rico