The New Traditionalists
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Pete Absolon, Bob Burgher (at 5.11d AO) 1986 FFA: Eric Horst, Rick Thompson 1987 |
Page Views: | 2,905 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | camhead on Sep 20, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
The guidebook says of this line, "Seriously, it's an 80 foot fingercrack!" Although there is a bit of a chimney section, the description pretty much sums it up (and I think there's some sort of finger crack in the back of the chimney, so...).
The route starts right off with a sort of jump start to a jug, then some 5.10ish perfect fingers, to a squeeze chimney with hands and fingers in the back, and then the final 50 feet are an unrelenting crack with everything from good locks to tips locks to ringlocks, and one or two handjam rests. I thought that there were two distinct cruxes.
The route starts right off with a sort of jump start to a jug, then some 5.10ish perfect fingers, to a squeeze chimney with hands and fingers in the back, and then the final 50 feet are an unrelenting crack with everything from good locks to tips locks to ringlocks, and one or two handjam rests. I thought that there were two distinct cruxes.
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