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The New River Gorge

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Hawk's Nest Dam 
Meadow River Gorge 
New River Gorge Proper 
Summersville and Gauley River 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Wildcat Ridge Trail
A wild ride along the ridge finishing with a fast, narrow descent. Near Marmet, WV
Middle Ridge Trail
A flowing singletrack following the ridge line from the front of Kanawha State Forest to the back. Near Charleston, WV
LaCroy
A side loop off of Dalton also providing access to the Long Point trailhead. Near Fayetteville, WV
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

The New River Gorge  


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Location: 38.0724, -81.0812 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,882,632
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Whisenhunt on Sep 5, 2006
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Description 

The greater New River Gorge region is one of the East's largest, most diverse, and quality climbing areas. Between the three major river gorges- the New, the Gauley/Summersville, and the Meadow- there are more than 1600 established routes on 60+ miles of cliffline, as well as hundreds of established boulder problems. While the moderates at some crags (Bubba City, Summersville) can be extremely crowded on weekends, it is still possible to find solitude and even first ascents, whether you wish to climb sport, trad, or boulder.

The rock itself is Nuttall Sandstone; some of the oldest and most bullet sedimentary rock in the nation. It is similar to that of the Obed or Chattanooga region in TN, and much harder and less featured than that of the Red River Gorge. Cliffs range from 40 to 150 feet in height. Tiered roofs, cracks, technical faces, arêtes, and dihedrals are common, and there are a few excellent splitter cracks and technical slabs as well. The cliffs are very long with few breakdowns, and for this reason many crags (Endless Wall, Summersville, Bubba City) are accessed via ladder, which can be a concern for some dog owners. Many routes have a 15 min approach, but almost all routes can be reached inside of 45 minutes.

It should be noted that for the most part the New River Gorge is not a beginner or a gym rat's climbing mecca. Especially in relation to the more popular Red River Gorge, the New's bolts tend to be farther apart, the holds smaller and more sparse, and the routes more technical and devious. Especially at Endless Wall, many sport routes may require a few pieces of gear to be led safely. The few crags with close bolting and concentrated 5.9s and 5.10s, such as Butcher's Branch and Orange Oswald, not surprisingly can get very crowded on weekends. To get the best experience at the most quality crags, one should be solid on at least 5.11 sport and 5.10 trad at most areas. However there are now crags out at the Upper Meadow and older routes at Summersville Lake and Whippoorwill that have bolted routes starting at 5.7 and going up.

Although locals climb at the New year round, spring and fall are the best seasons, and even during these times it is not uncommon to get hosed with week long rain storms. Summers can be very hot and humid, but the crags of Summersville Lake can remain breezy, shady, and with swimming only minutes away. Winter climbing is feasible on south facing crags on sunny days, but for the most part it is not a good idea to plan a long trip here after thanksgiving or before Spring Break.

Stick clips are a good idea for routes over 5.10 and a definite must for anything over 5.12.

If you happen to leave anything at the crag then please contact WaterStone Outdoors at (304) 574-2425.

Getting There 

Highway access is from Route 19, between Beckley and Hico, and from I-64, between Mossy and Sandstone.

Located in Fayetteville, WV 25840

Guidebook 

The most recent and best guidebook is Mike Williams' New River Rock Volume 1

Also, as the New River Gorge is a National River check out the NPS rock climbing site

Places to Stay 

There are quite a few campgrounds with full facilities (wifi, showers, water) in the Fayetteville area, but most cater to rafters, and not primarily climbers. The American Alpine Club’s recently constructed campground will hopefully become the new center for the local climbing community, but as of Fall of 2013 it does not have showers or flush toilets. Here is a brief list of campgrounds/sites in the area–

American Alpine Club Campground:
County Rt. 60/96 directly across from Junkyard access on your left- you can't miss it.
Walking distance to Junkyard.

Rifrafters Campground:
286 Rifrafters Campground Drive
Fayetteville, WV 25840
This is convenient for access to south side crags Kaymoor, Sunshine, Cottontop, etc.

Cantrell's Ultimate Rafting:
49 Cantrell Drive Fayetteville, WV 25840
En route to Kaymoor and South Nuttal crags.

Chestnut Creek Campground:
Lansing Edmond Rd (Across from Ames Heights Rd directly across Hwy 19, it's on the left just before the small roadside store) DO NOT pay attention to the Google Maps location, it is incorrect, but it's close.
1 mile/3 minutes
Very convenient access to all Fern/Endless/Beauty Mtn and JY and Bridge areas

Ray's Campground:
1199 Sunday Rd Hico, WV 25854
Located near the Meadow River crags, and also a bit closer to Summersville.

Mountain State/Mill Creek campsites:
Ames Heights Road ~ PO Box 78
Lansing, West Virginia 25862-0078
Very close to Junkyard crag

Summersville Dam:
Free camping at the base of the dam, near the Summersville crags. Minimal facilities, and you may be hanging out with rednecks and families.

Places For Food 

Secret Sandwich Society
The best sandwich/burger and lunch spot in town. During the seasons this place is usually packed with climbers. Free wifi. $9-$13 a plate. Closed Tuesdays.

Diogis
Awesome Mexican food and they serve liquor. What else is needed? $10-$20 a plate. Now closed on Wednesdays and soon to be moving locations.

Country Thai
Great Thai food that is within walking distance to the AAC campground. ~$12 a plate.

Pies and Pints
Awesome pizza, very interesting different types of pizza and a large variety of beer. $20 - $25 for a large pizza.

Gumbos
Cajun food that usually has pretty big helpings. Check out their fried green beans! $10 - $20 a plate.

Chetty's Pub
The typical bar scene but with an awesome wing night every Monday night. It's within walking distance to the AAC campground.

Smokey's On The Gorge
This place has an amazing buffet but can be a little more on the expensive side for the budget conscious dirtbag. $25 - $30 for all you can eat buffet.

Fat Eddies
Awesome milk shakes and fast food. Closer to Summersville than Fayetteville but definitely worth it.

OK Buffet
Okay Chinese food buffet that's all you can eat for $9.

Subway
Next to the little general right in town.

Cathedral Café (For sale if you are interested)
Tends to be full of climbers since it's the only place for food in the AM. Local, climber and paddler hangout. Free wifi.

Krogers
Grocery Store just south of the NRG on US19 on West side of the road.

Wal-Mart
Everyone loves to not spend lots of money, but get lots of stuff. South of town on US19 East side of road before Krogers.

Current Weather Forecast 

The Weather forecast for this week

Rest Day Activities 

There are all kinds of things to do for rest days in the NRG. Some of them rely on having warmer weather, some do not.

White Water Rafting
Depending on how thick your skin is you can always take a commercial trip down the New or during September and October you can try your hand at the Gauley. There are a lot of outfits around town. The closest one to the AAC campground is Class VI.

Hiking
There are so many hiking trails here. Go take in the views from a different perspective!

Bike riding
You can always go rent a road or mountain bike and take a long ride. Check out Marathon or New River Bikes

Rainy Day Activities 

A 20% chance of rain vs a 90% chance are the exact same. You may never see a rain cloud, or it may rain the entire day, no one truly knows. With that said there are plenty of things to do, including climbing, when it rains outside. Don't forget to pick up a copy of the Retarded Fish Monkey's guidebook at WaterStone, he has some good things listed. Any of the rest day activities above can be done in the rain and are usually a lot more fun in the rain. Besides what's above, drinking, making fun of the camp host at the AAC, and drinking some more there aren't many things to do. The few things left to do are below.

Climbing
Most of the stuff to climb when it's raining out is harder. But if you can use common sense and not act like an idiot everyone can have fun. Listed below are the areas that more or less stay dry in the rain.

Bridge Buttress The only routes that start dry are the ones to the far right starting with Labor Day. The cracks do seep a good bit, so if it's been raining a while then skip this place.

The Cirque My personal favorite. Stays completely dry in a downpour, unless it's blowing rain then there is no hope, even for the mutants.

First Buttress This place stays pretty dry and has a 5.10 and a 5.11! The very top of Boomerang and some of the other longer routes get wet at the top. I've seen sends of these routes during the rain so it's possible!

The Hole Ready to get pumped beyond belief? Easy approach and hard climbing await.

Rico Suave Uber classic 5.10a and a handful of 5.11s stay dry.

Coliseum Huge cave that stays dry and houses 5.12 - 5.14b.

Diamond Point This area does not stay dry in the rain, but it dries the quickest!

Bouldering
There are a handful of bouldering caves spread across the NRG that have a lot to offer. There is one at Junkyard, Beauty Mountain, and Cotton Top. For more info swing by WaterStone Outdoors to get the full beta. If you happen to run into Micah or Stella at the shop then consult with them. They are writing a new bouldering guide for the NRG! You can even rent a bouldering pad at WaterStone Outdoors!

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.9 miles from here

1,008 Total Routes

['4 Stars',169],['3 Stars',474],['2 Stars',266],['1 Star',69],['Bomb',7]
['<=5.6',34],['5.7',40],['5.8',57],['5.9',101],['5.10',237],['5.11',245],['5.12',220],['5.13',57],['>=5.14',3],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The New River Gorge:
Hippie Dreams   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 90'   Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
New Yosemite   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Super Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress
Flight of the Gumbie   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Rico Sauve   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Burning Calves   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
Legacy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
Leave it to Jesus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 100'   Endless Wall : Diamond Point
Satisfaction Guaranteed   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Summersville Lake : The Satisfaction Wall
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Under the Milky Way   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Summersville Lake : The Long Wall
Narcissus   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Summersville Lake : Narcissus Cave
Apollo Reed   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Summersville Lake : The Coliseum
Quinsana Plus   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area
Proper Soul   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Endless Wall : The Cirque
Browse More Classics in The New River Gorge

Featured Route For The New River Gorge
TtheT climbs the tiger-striped face immediately le...

Tony the Tiger 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Seven Eleven Wall
Start by scrambling up to a ledge and climb the crack system to reach the first overhang. Pull the overhang and work up a flake to reach the next overhang. Traverse left under the overhang to reach a flared flake, pull up and gain a stance (crux). From here, follow positive holds all the way to the top to reach the final overhang. At the final overhang, move a bit left and climb straight up to reach a large protruding block and make the final clip. Figure out a way to get in position to cl...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of The New River Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
The bridge. Photo by Carter Shumaker
The bridge. Photo by Carter Shumaker
Get off the trail a little way off the beaten trac...
Get off the trail a little way off the beaten trac...
Sunset over the New River Gorge, WV.
Sunset over the New River Gorge, WV.
Free showers.  Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Free showers. Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Hidden waterfall, with view of the NR bridge.
Hidden waterfall, with view of the NR bridge.
its not always good climbing weather but often dam...
BETA PHOTO: its not always good climbing weather but often dam...
Bridge from Long Point.  For scale, bridge is over...
Bridge from Long Point. For scale, bridge is over...
Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Bridge view from junkyard wall (jumping jack flash...
Bridge view from junkyard wall (jumping jack flash...
Another one of the NRG in the clouds.
Another one of the NRG in the clouds.
Best Nachos I've ever had at Pies and Pints. Total...
Best Nachos I've ever had at Pies and Pints. Total...
World class whitewater, Fayette Station Rapid (bel...
World class whitewater, Fayette Station Rapid (bel...
Rhododendrons at the New River Gorge (late May - e...
Rhododendrons at the New River Gorge (late May - e...
Please TR off you own gear I beleieve the claim wa...
BETA PHOTO: Please TR off you own gear I beleieve the claim wa...
view from Kaymoor
view from Kaymoor
Umm...any questions?
Umm...any questions?
Beware - Notorious speedtrap on Rt. 19 near Fayett...
BETA PHOTO: Beware - Notorious speedtrap on Rt. 19 near Fayett...
Expect a few rainy days while visiting the New!!
BETA PHOTO: Expect a few rainy days while visiting the New!!
Off the beaten track. There is a cave in there.
Off the beaten track. There is a cave in there.
these things love the trails during the rain
these things love the trails during the rain
Welcome to Fayetteville
BETA PHOTO: Welcome to Fayetteville
The Gorge filled with clouds. Taken from the top o...
The Gorge filled with clouds. Taken from the top o...
A familiar landmark for many who frequent the New ...
A familiar landmark for many who frequent the New ...
Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Photo: Dave Fiorucci

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Comments on The New River Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 
Any more recent news with possible NRG closures due to the gov shutdown? I've got a trip planned there tomorrow. Thanks!
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Nov 26, 2014
NRG aficionados will probably enjoy this Enormocast episode. Pretty entertaining. enormocast.com/episode-69-live...