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The Monkey House
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The New Pollution 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Greg Purnell, 1999
Page Views: 924
Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Jan 1, 2001

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Mike Davis just below the anchor on The New Pollut...
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route is technically at the Monkey House, which is slightly above and to the left of The Wall of the '90s about 100ft. Start the route from on top of a short, 4th class ledge. The route is short, powerful, and overhanging. Every move is difficult and interesting to decipher. The rating is solid, especially as a key hold has broken, yielding even less purchase than before. Have fun but bring an attentive belayer, especially for the attention-grabbing moves between the slightly run-out 2 and 3 bolts.


Protection 

The route is only 3 bolts long with a 2 bolt anchor. However, the belayer should certainly clip himself into the single bolt on the ledge at the start of the climb.



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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

Gregg - Killer route. You can actually belay from the ground, if the leader clips a lond draw in the "belay anchor" first, giving this a better lead. Have a good time.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 3, 2001

First, I would like to thank you for putting up this site. I think you have done a great job in doing so. But I am wondering why you do not add pictures of the walls and routes? unless I am an idiot and do not know how to access them. If I am mistaken, please let me know. Much Thanks! super J

By Quinn Stevens
From: Denver, CO
Aug 2, 2001

Today I finally bagged this route, my enemy for some time now. Very seldom will you find more solid, continuous climbing packed into one route. As aforementioned, a hold broke just above the second bolt. Here, I feel, is the technical crux- tossing from the crappy, right side pull to a small crimp sidepull with your left hand. I fell after making this move on redpoint three times, twice running out of gas with my hand an inch shy of the finishing jug. This is a 12c you can sink your teeth into, and despite hating the route from time to time, I highly recommend it.

By Quinn Stevens
From: Denver, CO
Dec 12, 2001

Upon re-reading my comment, I realized how stupid I sound. I think I meant to say something about the 'solid, continuous climbing...' particularly for such a short route. If this only continued for another 7 bolts or so it would be killer! Thanks to Gregg for such a good addition to the wall.

By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Jul 26, 2012

Great route. I felt like the top out was the crux. Unless I completely missed something. The rest of the route was powerful but easy to decipher and the moves pretty obvious.

By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Jul 30, 2012

I put fixed draws on the 2nd and 3rd bolts and also added biners to the anchors so they are easier to clip.

Enjoy. This is a great route packed into a small area.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Hey Mike, I felt the same about the top until I found the really good crimp that has apparently never been used before. Seemed to work a lot better for me, but we'll see when I get there from the ground. Definitely sustained and packs a punch for a shorty. Ill probably add a quick-link to the anchor so the angle between bolts is less severe.

By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
May 28, 2013

Left hand or right hand crimp. The move I was gunning for was a right hand pinch type thing that if you get your thumb on it, is ok, but low %.

By Ethan Davis
From: Golden, CO
Jul 14, 2014

A large horn between bolt 1 & 2 broke today. It seemed crucial at first, but what is now left is a bomber (but smaller) sidepull. I don't think it should change the grade as the crux comes higher.