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DescriptionA short compact basalt cliff with bouldery sport climbs and a few trad cracks. About 15 completed routes as of 2010. A good warm up for The Solar Asylum, as it gets the sun earlier and has easier/shorter routes. Climbable all winter, plenty of afternoon sunshine. Morning shade in summer. Getting ThereThis crag is located about 1/4 mile (10min walk) West of the Solar Asylum (see the many approaches for this crag on here on MP).This cliff can be seen above John's Wall to the East and can also be approached by scrambling up the left side of John's Wall and following a faint carined trail that diagonals up and East, about 10 min. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The New New Buffalo:
Tradtex 5.10 Trad, 50 feet
Vortex 5.11 Sport, 50 feet
The Alchemist 5.12a Sport, 50 feet
Featured Route For The New New Buffalo
Start in the corner then move out left onto the face. after a ledge halfway you will encounter a bouldery crux that gains the arete, lay this back to gain a jug and another hidden bolt above, continue to bolted anchor...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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