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The Needles

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Index, The 
Jagged Mountain 
Knife Point 
Noname Needle 
Pigeon Peak 
Sunlight Spire 
West Needle Mountains 

The Needles 


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Location: 37.64627, -107.58777 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Mar 5, 2012
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Lower north face of Leviathan....

Description 

As with its northerly neighbors, the Grenadiers, the Needles provide for some of the best backcountry mountaineering in the area. Huge potential exists on The Organ, Thompson Peak and others just to the south of the more popular and easier accessed Eolus, Sunlight, and Windom peaks. To the north of the peaks around Chicago Basin, lie the drainages of Ruby and Noname Creeks and these contain nice technical lines on peaks like Animas Mtn., The Index, Knife Point, Peak Ten, and of course Jagged. Though the Needles contain some very poor rock, there are those faces and spires which (for those who are in the know,) will yield some fantastic new routes.


Getting There 

My favorite approach is by getting off the train at Needleton and either taking Chicago Creek, Ruby Creek, or Noname Creek trails to within base camp distance of my objective.


Climbing Season


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Needles:
Naked Lady Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1000'   West Needle Mountains : Snowdon Peak
Northeast Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, Alpine   West Needle Mountains : Snowdon Peak
West Buttress   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, Alpine, 800'   West Needle Mountains : Snowdon Peak
Normal Route   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 800'   Jagged Mountain
Standard Route, Sunlight Spire   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150'   Sunlight Spire
Browse More Classics in The Needles

Featured Route For The Needles
Base of Index tower complex.  Notice ledge with #3 hand crack accessing upper sections.

Index by FA Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Index
From the bottom of the tower, climb 7 feet to a ledge that accesses a less than vertical handcrack (5.5, 15 feet, #3 Camalot). Belay off boulders just above the crack. Hop 50 feet around the base of the first tower and either rappel or downclimb (5.2, 30 feet) a gully to the east between towers 1 and 2. Set up a belay with medium stoppers. Climb easy fingers to hands to blocks to top of second tower (5.6, 60 feet) and belay off a slung boulder with a relic piton. Rappel to saddle betw...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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