Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Cactus Rose Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aliens Ate My Penis 
Alligator Ed 
Arizona Rising 
Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him 
Back in Black 
Bald Headed Neocons 
Barbecueing Traditions 
Cactus Rose 
Child's Play 
Crack to Black 
E=mc2 
Handsome Alien 
Hell Raiser 
Hell Razors 
How Ed Lost His Mind 
John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts 
Little Boys With Power Toys 
Maiden's Milk 
Mark Finds Bob Bolting 
Munchkins on Parade 
Needle Lies, The 
Omen, The 
Paper Bondage 
Pigs in Bondage 
Raising Arizona 
Skinheads Big Night Out 
Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones... 
Sweat Hog 
Take The Skinheads Bowling 
Tower of Beta, The 
Vapor Trails 
Welcome To The Machine 
Whisper of Immortality 
Unsorted Routes:

The Needle Lies 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 376
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 8, 2001
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Making the stretch on The Needle Lies first bolt

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

When you arrive at the top of the trail you will be by a large boulder that splits the crag. The first route to the right of this boulder is 'The Needle Lies'. This route is much harder than 10a unless I missed something severe. The crux involves a reachy deadpoint/throw to a large sidepull. This is going to be quite hard for shorter people (under 5'6") as you will have to use desperate crimps (5.10 Haha). Not a really great warm up as the climbing is in your face from the start. Hope you have fun with this one. Clean rock and holds just a little harder than it looks.


Protection 

3 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.



Comments on The Needle Lies Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 8, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The move to the sidepull didn't feel so desperate. I thought this was a good warmup because - what else are you going to start with on this wall? The bolts are well placed and make it a safe route.

After topping out you can traverse right along a loose and slightly sloping but wide ledge to the small tree. Good toproping on stiffer stuff.

By sam flournoy
From: estes park, co
Apr 4, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

For posterity . . .agree on the 10 rating, especially for shorter folks. This was a pretty good first climb at Shelf, what with the incredible, sculpted (read: sharp!) limestone features. Get good but polished feet and reach way, way out for a big hold. Fun but pretty easy after that.

By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
May 1, 2010

I think 10a is a sandbag, I did Unusual Weather after this and found it to be easier than this route unless I missed something severe. Head over here when The Bank is still in the shade and get warmed up.