New bolts make this a fun lead. Common this route is not. It is the only bolted, five-ten, jug-haul, dyno-action, hueco-pocket, after-work, pitch near Denver. Don't count on it being unoccupied. I wouldn't have added this route, but "Choppers" need this page for comments.
Top ropers: All you need to do is thread the new chains with rapid-links. A long draw is nice to back yourself up while you thread. If the links look worn, then get new ones at the hardware store for a few bucks.
Sport pros: You might want some Aliens and RPs for getting to both the first bolt and the anchors. A fourth bolt up high would be nice, but it's best to save something for after it gets chopped by people-who-don't-ever-lead-this.
Naturists: Below the crux, above the huecos, in the thin crack that leans right, small Aliens and two #4 RPs can be strenuously placed. A guano hueco rest hold, embellished by the fried chicken smell from the restaurants below, adds to the noisy highway ambiance. I've led it with gear a bunch. The last time I saw someone else lead it was Alan Nelson, about 1990. The bolts don't block any gear placements and vice-versa.
I'm not a chopper (if there chopped, they'll re-appear) but was outraged when I showed up to climb the "cave route." The climb is "sporty" and difficult to place gear on (gear was the "crux") but the bolts seem to be poorly placed. The 2nd bolt, (the one that is a foot to the side of the #1 TCU and #5 stopper, just before the crux) is for some reason stuck in a dish instead of on the nice smooth face. Also, I think it is a bit irresponsible to not bolt the top. I would prefer if the bolts never showed up, but it would be worse if some bumblie took a ground fall near the chains and the area received access problems.
There are several versions of this route, all really good. 1. The regular. Up the arÍte, then up a short finger crack with jugs. A step right to a ramp/foothold. Then a layback up and left to easier ground. Then up the juggy dihedral left again, under the bolts on top. This is about 5.10. 2. Start five feet left, up a crack to the overhang. Then go straight over the steep bulge just left of the crack. Easier to start, but a long reach at the overhang, as I recall. 5.10/5.10+.3. Start on the right of the cave. Swing out left along a steep rail which joins the regular route at the rest. This is a tad harder, and for sure more hairy. 5.10+.4. Start in the back of the cave, and climb steeply out to a jug at the lip, just right of the semi-rest ramp. Good knee bar somewhere. This is a tad harder again, plus (with a toprope) a fall from the starting moves would involve a big nasty swing out to the boulders. Exciting! 5.11-.
Any which way, this is a fun juggy route. A favorite.
It upset me to come here after a couple years off and see the vandalism. Nautilus was established decades ago, and has been soloed and toproped hundreds of times. The bolts may not get in the way of the (easy) gear placements, but they do screw up the enjoyment I have always gotten from swinging around on this great little route over the last twenty years.
I wish I had known that the bolts ran out. I guess it's just a good example of "Look before you leap," because my girlfriend and I definitely went up there with just some quickdraws and a short rope as an afterthought one day. As it turns out the climbing from the third bolt to the chains is pretty mellow, but I was definitely into groundfall territory by the time I reached the top. A few small finger sized cams would've got it done. Then again, the route is already bolted, and more to the point, it has the appearance, standing beneath it, of a route that will be bolted to the top. I don't think one pussy bolt in the top 20 ft would be inappropriate.
Stellar, I think the bolts are placed perfectly, (the first one seems high, but it is no higher than many of the boulder problems here.) If you go sport style, make sure to bring a good head because after the last bolt the runout is long enough to warrant the R rating in my opinon, (although the terrain is 5.7-ish after the last bolt.) Pumpy and fun and a great warm-up for the other magnificent bolted line here 'Price For Fire'. I don't see where you need to make this dynamic, it is quite eaisly done static the whole way, still being a 10a. Get on it!!
Great route, and echoing what others have said - I feel like it's more of a 9+ than a 10-. Maybe deserves the 10- because of the high placement of the 1st bolt and / or the runout at the top, but (again) like others have said - that runout is protectable with a nut.
Also - climbed this during the summer months, and there was some *extreme* BUG activity going on around the last bolt. Around the ledge if I remember correctly - threw my hand up there, only to grab nothing but BUG - no rock. Well, rock underneath the BUG, but definitely had to sweep them away. Kinda felt like that Indiana Jones movie. Anyways - not sure if those guys are a seasonal issue or what - but just a heads-up.
By Andrew Bradberry From: Golden, CO Apr 18, 2010 rating: 5.10a/b6a+19VI+19E2 5b
There are bees living in the crack just below the crux, they don't take kindly to climbers!
By percious From: Bear Creek, CO May 14, 2012 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
I'd be wary of sending a budding 5.10 leader up there. I think that if you toprope this thing to death and rehearse the moves before giving it a go on lead, you might come out with 10b. Onsight, with strenuous placements and numerous possibilities for sequences, deciphering the "right" way to climb this thing is pretty hard. I think 10d is more reasonable onsight rating.
The bolts are well-placed and protect the crux of the climb adequately. I found 3 blue Metolius or green Alien placements. A couple of small nuts are also nice to have. The top section probably goes at hard 8, and there will be groundfall/ledgefall potential at the chains if you do not supplement the bolts.
There were no insects on the route in May 2012.
By Dave Clark 5.10 From: Golden, CO Apr 14, 2013 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b PG13
Great route, Ken. Fun, pumpy bugger with great hands but some slippery feet.
The footholds have definitely become very polished over the last few years. My feet slipped at around the first bolt, leaving me hanging by my hands a la Wil E. Coyote (sp?), giving me a nice gash in my index finger that took some direct pressure to stop!