Cleaned on rappel prior to FA. Climb the first pitch of The Shield and belay. Locate the large, ominous roof directly overhead and notice that the lower part of it continues out to the left horizontally. Climb up 30' or so trending slightly left and then climb out the roof with no gear through an obvious weakness and turn the crux lip. .10b X
Place some gear just after the lip turn and head up and left on 5.9 slab and belay further up on the ramp. A hard to find micro cam placement eases the tension a bit near the end of the slab.
Descend the north-facing slab from the summit and then romp down a bit of talus and come back around to the base of Lower Peanuts.
SR. Small tech cams.
|By Joseph P. Crotty|
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 26, 2008
Brad Bond and I talked and the consensus is that Brad and his partner probably did the FA about ten years ago onsight. Congrats! I spent about an hour scrubbing the slab on my lead so it's cleaned up a good bit.