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Little Eiger
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"Is Our Children Learning?" S 
Abney 74 
Animaniac, The 
Black Haul T,TR 
Black Hole T 
Bonehead S 
Busch Gardens S 
Bush Administration S 
Closet Climber 
Conehead S 
Decider, The S 
Delusions of Grandeur S 
Disembowler, The 
Eiffel Tower S 
Eiger Direct S 
Eiger Sanction S 
Fire Face (Project) 
Fire in the Sky 
First Impressions S 
Footloose S 
Free Up The Weed S 
Green Zone, The S 
Headline T,S 
Herbal Essence S 
Ice Princess, The 
Misunderestimate S 
Naked Hedge, The S 
Natural Selection S 
Nordwand, The S 
Persistent Vegetative State S 
Radometer in the Red Zone S 
Smoke on the Water 
Tierra Del Fuego S 
Too! S 
Trouthead S 
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal 
Tsunami Of Charisma S 
Unknown TR 
Unsorted Routes:

The Naked Hedge 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Thor Kieser
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,508
Submitted By: Thor Kieser on Oct 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (85)
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Description 

Thanks to Scott Bilyeu for all the help with cleaning. We must have brought down a ton of crap rock in the first 15 feet of the climb.

Start in the corner to the right of Busch Gardens, and then climb steep, fractured rock past three bolts. At the fifth bolt, undercling and step right onto the face, note the mystery vintage '60s piton (Layton Kor and company?) in the undercling (Sick!). Cruise up to the base of the headwall and climb past four bolts on overhanging face, use the arete to finish.

The anchor is equiped with steel biners for your lowering pleasure. Please be careful in the first corner as there still may be dangerous blocks, belay well off to the left side.

Protection 

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor equiped with steel carabiners.


Photos of The Naked Hedge Slideshow Add Photo
The fun moves on the arete near the top....
The fun moves on the arete near the top....
Pulling over the overhang at the second bolt.
Pulling over the overhang at the second bolt.
Nearing the top out on the "Naked Hedge". Fun route.
Nearing the top out on the "Naked Hedge"...

Comments on The Naked Hedge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 28, 2013
By TBD
Jun 11, 2005

The climbing is thoughtful and continuous, but the rock is either chossy or dirty. This one will take a long time to clean up, if ever.
By Kim Melnick
Jul 21, 2005

This route was scary. It was all choss. I was not impressed. When I thought I finally got onto safe rock, I got to the "anchors", which are both placed in a big loose boulder. This seems like an accident waiting to happen.
By bb
Jul 21, 2005

Unbelievably bad. Waste of time, and hangers, for that matter. Kinda lures the unwary into a bad place.

But hey. It's a free country still.....right?

Maybe it's "all good, bra."
By Gary Apostolou
Jul 22, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The anchors seemed solid enough, but then again I did not investigate it that much. Scary? Not really it's bolted where it needs to be. My only problem with it is the last bolt is stupid. It's fairly obvious to turn the corner at the arete and run up to the anchors that way skipping the last bolt. Run out? Maybe, but we are talking 5.6.
By Thor Kieser
Jul 23, 2005

Ok - I will close the route. Hangers and anchors will be removed today. Later when I get time bolt holes will be grouted over.
By Rob
Jul 30, 2005

I climbed this route maybe 5 or 6 weeks ago and think that enough has been said to warn the wary. I always figure new routes will be a little loose (and so are old routes and mountain routes...it's just part of being outdoors). If you don't like some bolts, just skip 'em. If the anchor bothers you, burn a few biners and rap off the next few down. The bolts are already in, and I think it's nice to be able to spread out the climbers. Time will sort out the better routes, so I'd say leave it alone if you haven't already taken direct action.
By ac
Aug 15, 2005

Climbed Naked Hedge on 8-14-05. Bolts and anchors still in place. GOOD! Not sure what all the complaining is about here, but people must be smoking crack. There is nothing wrong with that route at all! If you don't use the big, blocky flakes on the right of the first 30 feet, the climbing is excellent through this section. The arete section is somewhat contrived, in that you have to avoid obvious left stems to keep the difficulty level up. The holds are a little sandy down low, but there is no loose rock. I didn't inspect the anchor boulder. If there is a true problem with the anchor security, then move it higher onto better rock, but there is no good reason to close this route. Not the best of the new ones, but worth a star.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The route has cleaned up OK after 1 year+ of existence. No big deal for loose rock. Yes- it was obvious to go up around the arete. After doing that I went back down and forced it to the left so it was "steep" and "slopey" but whatever. The route is probably 10c if you climb the arete to the left side but don't use the left wall behind you, which is the only loose part.
The bolt-count was a little odd- I found myself skipping 1/2 of the tightly spaced ones that were pretty hard to clip or just plain unnecessary.
Busch Gardens and Bush Administration are better routes.
By T. Kieser
Oct 10, 2006

I moved the anchors down and right to solid rock and moved the last bolt to the arete. This should satisfy those who were concerned.

Thor
By kevin fox
From: parker
May 28, 2007

Did this route yesterday and thought it was good. When I moved to the third bolt, it looked like everyone was moving to the right. What I thought was the crux. I'm impressed with the routes that Thor has been putting up. I personally have never set a route, soo kudos to Thor. Thanks again.
By Nate Oakes
Jun 19, 2008

RE: loose rock on this route - I did not find any significant amount today. A few loose ones, obviously not holds, about the size of a deck of playing cards. The rock in the first 30' or so looks unreliable, but I'm a fairly heavy guy and couldn't get anything to move on me, so game on. The anchors currently in place are solid. I had trouble rappelling the route and cleaning it simultaneously - the overhanging face puts you out from the rock, and the line wanders a bit. Thanks to Kor for putting up and cleaning a fun route.
By raise
Jul 3, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Not a bad route. Rocks a little loose off the get, but the moves at the end make it worthwhile--the overhanging face is fun. Not every route can draw max stars... you're at Eiger... enjoy. Or go get roasted during the summer days on the Red Slab.
By Greg D
From: Here
May 26, 2009

Interesting how the route submitter noticed the pin, yet claims a first ascent. Pin must have grown there as a result of a seed blown in from another route I guess.
By slim
Administrator
May 27, 2009

Happens quite frequently, particularly in areas where "herbicide" is frowned upon....
By P.D.Williams
From: Lakewood
Jun 14, 2009

I really liked this route. The exposure makes it exciting and committing to the arete was fun. I'd give this a much higher rating than what is posted here. No issues with loose rock or dirt - but then its been raining every day for about 2 months...
By Thor.K
Jul 9, 2009

Kor placed this pin in the sixties on his way up the corner to the left. Since my route does not go into the corner, it's still a first ascent except for maybe ten feet of climbing low down....
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 26, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An odd climb, but certainly not the pariah some make it out to be. Some choss down below, sure. But the exit moves over that orange, overhanging face are delicious, even if the bolts are placed funky.

Don't listen to them, Thor. Yer doin' dog's work.

And the dog tags aren't "cute"; they're a cool way to mark off a crowded wall. Wish more sport areas would adopt this practice....
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
May 6, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I feel like the issue with this line is that the little headwall at the top looks so amazing, but the path of least resistance skirts around it -- the first half is avoided via the ledges on the left and the second half avoided by moving out onto the arete. The coolest part was the traverse from the big ledge across the face to the huge jug on the arete. Doesn't seem like anything the bolter could do about it though. Definitely a line worth climbing -- at least once anyhow.
By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I really enjoyed this route. It must've been cleaned up a lot since it was first opened. Perhaps it's one of the routes cleaned up this summer when the canyon was closed?

Down low there are definitely some inviting holds that don't appear all that reliable, but there was solid rock there for the moves. Higher up, I thought the climbing was great.

The upper dihedral felt more dynamic than the lower section, but that may've been due to the fact that I was getting pumped and moving out of desperation as much as anything else.
By Dave Alie
From: Golden, CO
Jun 28, 2013

After reading the comments on for this climb, I felt compelled to throw in my lot with some of the more recent comments about the routes condition. There is a little bit of loose rock on this route but not too much. The bigger problem is rock that is slightly fractured or otherwise less than stable. Most of those blocks feel secure at least for now, but it is best to tread lightly through the opening series. It's easy to imagine the overwhelming quantity of loose rock that must have existed on this route when it was first opened.

As for the climbing, the movement is extremely fun, interesting throughout, and I thought it was one of the more enjoyable routes at the wall. Maybe not quite on the level of Eiger Direct but better than most. The consistent size of the holds, however, made this one a give-away at mid-10. I would encourage people to give this route a try, but be sure to have your belayer stand under the starting overhang of the green zone (or at least off to the right somewhat) to avoid any rock that might come down.