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The Muttonhead

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Inevitable Awaits You, The 
Mystery of the Desert 
Oops I sharted 
Seeing is Believing 
Steep Short Green Streak 
Tiny But Exciting 
Tour Buses Welcome 
Unknown (L side of SW face) 
Unknown (R side of SW face) 
unknown (se arete) 

The Muttonhead 


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Page Views: 22,714
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: David C. Burke on Mar 7, 2007
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Description 

The Muttonhead dome is the slightly less prominent dome to the left of the Sheepshead as viewed from the Sheepshead parking area. Much of the climbing on this dome is mixed trad/sport routes. The rock quality is generally solid but a helmet is definitely still a good idea.


Getting There 

Follow the same general approach for the Sheepshead. Once you reach the base of the Sheepshead take the trail that heads westward along the base of the formation and starts heading up the gully between the Sheepshead and the Muttonhead. After about five to ten minutes there will be a faint climbers trail that diverges from the main trail and heads west. Take this trail for another ten to fifteen minutes and you will arrive at the Southwest face of the Muttonhead dome.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Muttonhead:
Mystery of the Desert   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   
Tour Buses Welcome   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Sport, 4 pitches, 320'   
Unknown (L side of SW face)   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 260'   
The Inevitable Awaits You   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Unknown (R side of SW face)   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 285'   
Steep Short Green Streak   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Muttonhead

Featured Route For The Muttonhead
Quality sustained steep slab on pitch one.

The Inevitable Awaits You 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : The Muttonhead
This is a bolted climb which starts 10' left of Mystery of the Desert.Pitch 1 (10d, 90'): Climb past 11 bolts to a bolted anchor. Keep well to the right of the bolts after the 4th bolt, crux moves are near the 2nd and 9th bolts. Pitch 2 (11a, 85'): Head up and slightly left from the anchor. Pass 6 bolts on your way toward a roof. Pass the roof on its left side, making the crux move to reach a dike. Move to the right about 10' to the anchor.Pitch 3 (10d, 90): Step right on to easy ground ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

News and Events For The Muttonhead
Photos of The Muttonhead Slideshow Add Photo
Sheepshead and Muttonhead.
Sheepshead and Muttonhead.
Comments on The Muttonhead Add Comment
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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Oct 5, 2009

Leave the approach for Ewephoria at the very first switchback in the gully by continuing to traverse left and a little up to the base of Muttonhead. Here, there will be a rock tunnel. Enter that and then downclimb 10 or so feet (easy). Continue to traverse below Muttonhead until reaching the desired climb.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2010

Legend has it that this dome was originally known as "Sheep Shit"; however, since that name is not publisher friendly it was changed to "Muttonhead".

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 7, 2013

It's a 5.9. All bolts if i remember correctly. Fun and worth doing if you're up there. You're talking about the one that's straight ahead if you were walking out of the little porthole tunnel right?