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 ADVANCED
The Muttonhead

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Inevitable Awaits You, The S 
Mystery of the Desert T 
Oops I sharted T 
Seeing is Believing T 
Steep Short Green Streak S 
Tiny But Exciting S 
Tour Buses Welcome S 
Unknown (L side of SW face) S 
Unknown (R side of SW face) S 
unknown (se arete) S 

The Muttonhead  


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Location: 31.87036, -109.99398 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,245
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: David C. Burke on Mar 7, 2007
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Description 

The Muttonhead dome is the slightly less prominent dome to the left of the Sheepshead as viewed from the Sheepshead parking area. Much of the climbing on this dome is mixed trad/sport routes. The rock quality is generally solid but a helmet is definitely still a good idea.

Getting There 

Follow the same general approach for the Sheepshead. Once you reach the base of the Sheepshead take the trail that heads westward along the base of the formation and starts heading up the gully between the Sheepshead and the Muttonhead. After about five to ten minutes there will be a faint climbers trail that diverges from the main trail and heads west. Take this trail for another ten to fifteen minutes and you will arrive at the Southwest face of the Muttonhead dome.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.1 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Muttonhead:
Mystery of the Desert   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   
Tour Buses Welcome   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 4 pitches, 320'   
Unknown (L side of SW face)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 260'   
The Inevitable Awaits You   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Unknown (R side of SW face)   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches, 285'   
Steep Short Green Streak   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Muttonhead

Featured Route For The Muttonhead
Greg on the superb traversing first pitch before t...

unknown (se arete) 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0  AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : The Muttonhead
engaging climbing on muttonhead's eastern side. 1st pitch has height dependent crux that most mortals will probably end up aiding. bolts on harder ground and run-outs on the easy stuff. one of the first routes of the sheepshead complex to see morning sun....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for The Muttonhead
Photos of The Muttonhead Slideshow Add Photo
Sheepshead and Muttonhead.
Sheepshead and Muttonhead.

Comments on The Muttonhead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Oct 5, 2009
Leave the approach for Ewephoria at the very first switchback in the gully by continuing to traverse left and a little up to the base of Muttonhead. Here, there will be a rock tunnel. Enter that and then downclimb 10 or so feet (easy). Continue to traverse below Muttonhead until reaching the desired climb.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2010
Legend has it that this dome was originally known as "Sheep Shit"; however, since that name is not publisher friendly it was changed to "Muttonhead".
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 7, 2013
It's a 5.9. All bolts if i remember correctly. Fun and worth doing if you're up there. You're talking about the one that's straight ahead if you were walking out of the little porthole tunnel right?