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The must-climb bouldering spot in each state
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By Cole Whitaker
Dec 12, 2011

I'm taking a working road trip throughout the country and will hit more than half of the states, but am not sure exactly which ones yet. I'll be solo most the time, so sticking to bouldering. If I could only go to one place in each state, which one would it be?


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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Dec 13, 2011
Belay

Don't miss Gold Bar Boulders and Mountain Home (Leavenworth) Area in Washington state. And while you're in the Northwest you'd do well to hit up the bouldering in Squamish as well.


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By sthomas
Dec 13, 2011

Just a couple places I've been to:

New Hampshire: Pawtuckaway
Rhode Island: Lincoln Woods
New York: Gunks
Massachusetts: Farley (find a local to show you around)
Alabama: Horsepens


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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Dec 13, 2011

If you are traveling around, a copy of Tim Toula's climbing atlas "Rock and Road" is worthy purchasing. It is getting a bit old and is being replaced by Mountain Project, but it is still a worthy resource.


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By JJNS
Dec 13, 2011

Check out John Sherman's book called Stone Crusades. I can't believe I did all that work on the other post and you changed it to bouldering. This is a much larger can of worms that you are opening here. Almost every state has boulders, even Kansas. Not every state has sport climbing cliffs.

Best of the USA Bouldering

Hueco Tanks Texas
Bishop California
Joe's Valley Utah
LRC Tennessee
Horse Pens Alabama
RMNP/ MT. Evans Colorado

If your traveling during the hotter summer months Squamish, BC. is a great option.


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By Tristan Higbee
From Cambodia
Dec 13, 2011
Me on a mixed route Crisco and I did in Rock Canyon.

When will you be doing your road trip? Season matters. Joe's Valley here in Utah is awesome for spring and fall but super hot in summer and an ice climbing destination in winter.


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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Dec 13, 2011

Governor Dodge, Wisco


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Dec 13, 2011
Stoked...

Mass - Farley AND Great Barrington
CT - Bradley Mountain


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By AField
Dec 13, 2011

The Pond in NM, Priest Draw in AZ, Rumbling Bald in NC, Bishop in CA.


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By Kenny Clark
From State College, PA
Dec 13, 2011

I've been thinking about a similar topic for a few weeks now. My wife and I are keeping track of how many of the 50 states we've been to, and I thought, "Hey, why not try to climb something in each of the 50 states." One of the problems is that we've both been to something like 26 or 27 states, but have only climbed in 4 states. We'd have to revisit some of those states to climb.

Now, a second problem was that I didn't want to climb just any pile of choss, but I wanted to climb something good, so I started doing some research on MP.com, looking up the best climbing in each state. The problem is that not all the states have climbing in them according to MP.com (there are probably boulders in almost all of them, but I have no way of knowing...). I haven't gotten so desperate to look on the other site yet.

It was at this time, that I also gave up on the dream (that was really just more of a piqued interest) to visit the 50 high points. I don't want to be sneaking around in people's backyards. Maybe I should visit each point over 1000 ft....

Anyway, when I get a little free time, I look up another state's best crags (according to MP.com). What it's turned into is more just a "best of" for some of the states. (Doing CA, UT, and CO has been tough, so they are very incomplete.)

This list has turned out to serve as a consolation for me, for if I have to move to some far-off place with "no climbing". Someday I'll have to stop being a professional student and get a job. I recently moved from UT to PA, so this has served to keep the psych up during those times where I don't have time for a road trip. As of now, the list is very incomplete, but I intend to finish it and try to climb in some of the best places in the country little by little.


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By Evan Sanders
From Westminster, CO
Dec 13, 2011
Flaming Pumpkin

There isn't a whole lot of bouldering, but Illinois's Jackson Falls is one of the most beautiful climbing areas I've ever been to


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By Scott Grover
Dec 21, 2011

Kraft boulderfield in Red Rock, Las Vegas, NV


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 21, 2011
El Chorro

NC and the southeast have some of the better spots in the whole country. It's all Nov-March but sometimes it's not easy to find free or even cheap camping.


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By Yagi
From Fort Collins, CO
Dec 21, 2011

There is a gluttonous amount of fantastic bouldering in Cody, WY. Fantastic place to hit with very few other people around. Great guidebook, as well.


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By Rigggs24
From Denver, CO
Dec 21, 2011
Eldo Painting

Here's a more obscure one for you. I grew up in northern Ohio and there are a couple of small OK spots. Definitely not a destination spot, but if you are trying to climb in all 50 states, I would recommend Whipps Ledges in Hinckley, OH. Its got some pretty good bouldering and up to 35-40' cliffs of sandstone.


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Dec 21, 2011
perfect seam

I would say Devils Lake over Govenor Dodge for wisconsin, just for quality of rock and volume. If you're going to Minnesota at all go to Taylors Falls, but its all polished as hell and really slick unless you're getting on super hard stuff. the only other options in MN are really far up north...


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By Jeremy Kasmann
From Denver, CO
Dec 21, 2011

Evan Sanders wrote:
There isn't a whole lot of bouldering, but Illinois's Jackson Falls is one of the most beautiful climbing areas I've ever been to


The Roost is a good option for bouldering near JF.


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By BackCountry
From West Point, UT
Dec 21, 2011
Whaaaat?

Yagi wrote:
There is a gluttonous amount of fantastic bouldering in Cody, WY. Great guidebook, as well.


Which guidebook? I been meaning to get up there...


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By Yagi
From Fort Collins, CO
Dec 22, 2011

BackCountry wrote:
Which guidebook? I been meaning to get up there...


It's called the "Cody Bouldering Guide." Written by Mike Snyder, it's a great, essential guide for bouldering in Cody - more specifically, the Shoshone Canyon. Let me know if you want more information on it.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Dec 22, 2011
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

NC...Hound Ears, but make sure you come on the right day as it is only open one day a year (to those that don't live there). Otherwise, I'd say Rumbling Bald (winter) or Grandmother (summer).


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By Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Dec 22, 2011

Southeast boulders...
NC-Rumbling Bald
SC-Jedi
GA-Rocktown and Boat Rock
TN-Little Rock City and Lilly
AL-HP40
VA-Grayson Highlands

Bouldering USA is a little outdated, but still a good reference if you want a general overview of the US.


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