The Muffins Rock Climbing
The Muffins are numerous large boulders approximately 35 feet in height, surrounded by smaller rocks with fun, powerful boulder problems on them.
The Lower Muffins are a group of three similar-sized rocks, with chimneys separating them, and are host to three sport routes in the 5.10-5.11 range.
The Middle Muffin is a smallish but somewhat intimidating blob, with several slightly overhanging routes. Three of these are topropes (5.13b to 5.11d), while "Muff Diver" (5.10b) on the right hand side makes for a zesty 2-bolt lead.
The Upper Muffin also has one sport climb (and unknown trad climbs?) on it, though I know nothing about the difficulty of this climb.
Estimated hike in: 15 minutes. Distance: 0.8 miles
Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail.
This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time.
At the second Fork in the road, travel across the bridge and continue down to the observation area.
The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady Rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.
Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band.
After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully on the right side.
The Muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point.
Walk straight ahead and you're at the Lower Muffins.
To access the Middle Muffin, go past the Lower Muffins and find a trail to the right heading up.
The bolted route on the Upper Muffin can be seen easily from the base of Middle Muffin.
Climbing Season For the Castle Rock Area area.
Weather station 4.6 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Muffins
Jelly Roll 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
: San Francisco Bay Area
: ... : Lower Muffins
This route will constantly annoy you with bizarre, basackwards moves and other things that hadn't occurred to further your climbing move arsenal since you were five. However, you might want to remember some of the resulting moves. This is the right bolted route on the Lower Muffins. It moves up the left side of the lowest rightside rock up to a bolted section of balance switching moves. If you're going to lead this route, you should either stick clip the first bolt or keep a crashpad handy as th...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
By Lukas Wiborg
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2016
Don't really know why this route is in the bouldering section of CRSP because it is more commonly a destination for rope climbing if anything.