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The Muffins

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burnt Muffin S,TR 
Corn Muffin S,TR 
Day Sleeper 
Devil Baby Traverse 
Gym Rat 
Jelly Roll S,TR 
Muff Diver S,TR 
Muffin Monster TR 
Pocket Change 
Sticky Green Traverse, The 

The Muffins Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.2259, -122.1045 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,207
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: jared toettcher on Aug 21, 2002

64° | 45°

60° | 42°

53° | 39°

54° | 44°

60° | 52°

68° | 56°
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Rob on the new V4 traverse called "Pocket Cha...

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>


The Muffins are numerous large boulders approximately 35 feet in height, surrounded by smaller rocks with fun, powerful boulder problems on them.

The Lower Muffins are a group of three similar-sized rocks, with chimneys separating them, and are host to three sport routes in the 5.10-5.11 range.

The Day Sleeper and Gym Rat boulders are between the Lower and Middle Muffins.

The Middle Muffin is a smallish but somewhat intimidating blob, with several slightly overhanging routes. Three of these are topropes (5.13b to 5.11d), while "Muff Diver" (5.10b) on the right hand side makes for a zesty 2-bolt lead.

The Upper Muffin also has one sport climb (and unknown trad climbs?) on it, though I know nothing about the difficulty of this climb.

Getting There 

Estimated hike in: 15 minutes. Distance: 0.8 miles

Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail.

This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time.

At the second Fork in the road, travel across the bridge and continue down to the observation area.

The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady Rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.

Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band.

After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully on the right side.

The Muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point.

Walk straight ahead and you're at the Lower Muffins.

To access the Middle Muffin, go past the Lower Muffins and find a trail to the right heading up.

The bolted route on the Upper Muffin can be seen easily from the base of Middle Muffin.

Climbing Season

For the * Castle Rock Area Bouldering area.

Weather station 4.6 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Muffins
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb up the left side of this rock, which is abou...

Gym Rat V5 6C  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : The Muffins
Between The Mid Muffin and The Lower Muffin is a 15' boulder with problems on the two aretes facing mid muffin. The right one (facing the boulder) is Gym Rat. Start on the undercling as low and right as you can, traverse left around the arete then up to a slopey hueco and the finish mantle. The crux move is very powerful....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on The Muffins Add Comment
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By Lukas Wiborg
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2016
Don't really know why this route is in the bouldering section of CRSP because it is more commonly a destination for rope climbing if anything.

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