The Muffins Rock Climbing
Rob on the new V4 traverse called "Pocket Cha...
The Muffins are numerous large boulders approximately 35 feet in height, surrounded by smaller rocks with fun, powerful boulder problems on them.
The Lower Muffins
are a group of three similar-sized rocks, with chimneys separating them, and are host to three sport routes in the 5.10-5.11 range.
The Day Sleeper
and Gym Rat
boulders are between the Lower and Middle Muffins.
The Middle Muffin
is a smallish but somewhat intimidating blob, with several slightly overhanging routes. Three of these are topropes (5.13b to 5.11d), while "Muff Diver" (5.10b) on the right hand side makes for a zesty 2-bolt lead.
The Upper Muffin
also has one sport climb (and unknown trad climbs?) on it, though I know nothing about the difficulty of this climb.
Estimated hike in: 15 minutes. Distance: 0.8 miles
Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail.
This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time.
At the second Fork in the road, travel across the bridge and continue down to the observation area.
The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady Rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.
Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band.
After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully on the right side.
The Muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point.
Walk straight ahead and you're at the Lower Muffins.
To access the Middle Muffin, go past the Lower Muffins and find a trail to the right heading up.
The bolted route on the Upper Muffin can be seen easily from the base of Middle Muffin.
Climbing Season For the * Castle Rock Area Bouldering area.
Weather station 4.6 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Muffins