The Motherlode Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Topo of the routes in the Madness Cave, from left ...
Boasting the highest concentration of the steepest and longest routes at the Red, this is where the hard climbers spend the majority of their time. The Motherlode has 30+ 5.12s, ~15 5.13s and a smattering of 5.14s. There are a number of 5.11s in the area but to really appreciate the Motherlode, show up fit and be ready to sink your teeth into 5.12 or harder.
The area is broken up into five sectors, from left to right:
- Buckeye Buttress - Slightly overhaning, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
- Warm-Up Wall - Slightly overhanging, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
- GMC Wall - Getting closer to the Madness Cave and getting steeper. Morning to midday sun.
- Madness Cave - Super steep, overhanging climbing. Afternoon sun.
Following the driving directions for Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)
. Once you get to the bottom of the hill on Bald Mtn Rd there will be a large dirt/mud parking lot on you right. Park there and take any of the trails.
Weather station 0.9 miles from here
58 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Motherlode
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Motherlode
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Motherlode:
Featured Route For The Motherlode
The Madness 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a KY
: Red River Gorge
: ... : Madness Cave
Long moves to start through the wierd hueco features. Hard sloping moves after exiting the huecos. No hands rest at the break before the steep overhang. Head up the steep wall with a hard move a few bolts in and several long pulls on edges. Get some relief when the angle of the wall changes but then make a really long move or sloping pulls to get to another good break. Make cruxy moves on thin edges to a sloping shelf. Long moves on crimps takes you up the last headwall to the anchors.There are ...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
This was my first time at The Motherlode. Rainy fe...
Jessica dominates the Motherlode.
Somebody half way up Omaha Beach.