The Motherlode Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Topo of the routes in the Madness Cave, from left ...
Boasting the highest concentration of the steepest and longest routes at the Red, this is where the hard climbers spend the majority of their time. The Motherlode has 30+ 5.12s, ~15 5.13s and a smattering of 5.14s. There are a number of 5.11s in the area but to really appreciate the Motherlode, show up fit and be ready to sink your teeth into 5.12 or harder.
The area is broken up into five sectors, from left to right:
- Buckeye Buttress - Slightly overhaning, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
- Warm-Up Wall - Slightly overhanging, technical climbing. Morning to early afternoon sun.
- GMC Wall - Getting closer to the Madness Cave and getting steeper. Morning to midday sun.
- Madness Cave - Super steep, overhanging climbing. Afternoon sun.
Following the driving directions for Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)
. Once you get to the bottom of the hill on Bald Mtn Rd there will be a large dirt/mud parking lot on you right. Park there and take any of the trails.
Weather station 0.9 miles from here
58 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Motherlode
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Motherlode
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Motherlode:
Featured Route For The Motherlode
Omaha Beach 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a KY
: Red River Gorge
: ... : Madness Cave
The king line of the Madness Cave, this route climbs out the steepest part of the cave to the highest part of the cliff. Extended to the top of the cliff and sent by Bill Ramsey in 1999, this route was originally graded 5.13d, but upgraded after several holds broke. This is the quintessential RRG line, long and steep, but with generally pretty good holds, and no hard moves for the grade. Starting off the small boulder, pull one of the harder moves on the route a ~V5 boulder problem on small ho...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
Jessica dominates the Motherlode.
Somebody half way up Omaha Beach.
This was my first time at The Motherlode. Rainy fe...