The Mortuary is a mid-sized crag for the SSV and hosts just over a dozen routes if you are willing to count projects. If you are to inquire about the number of routes a mere mortal might enjoy, that number is closer to ten. These all face North, at least predominantly, and include both trad and mixed lines. A few prominent wide climbs send the invitation for someone to haul up larger cams, from 5" to as large as you would like to bring, though one of each of the two largest Camalots seemed plenty to me.
The routes here have not seen a lot of traffic so while they lie on fairly good stone, some lichen and chips are still present. Keep your eyes open.
The directions to this crag are not precise and there is not a single well-won trail. The approach might be 10-15 minutes and is achieved something like this:
Park at The Observatory (5.2 miles up canyon at a large pullout on the right side) and begin the approach for that crag. Rather than going up to access the climbing there, continue around the right end of the crag well below its base and about 5 minutes further, passing to the lower side (North) of some large boulders, hugging their bases until a large cliff appears out of them, rather suddenly, you arrive at the clif at its left end, near the climbs The Crypt and Cryonics, which both start with a wide crack behind a tower that creates the right-facing corner in a small slot, or 'box canyon' of sorts.
This is a good line with a little of everything, including hidden holds. The diverse nature of the climbing may make a distinct crux either hard to identify or a matter of some debate between parties. Shorter climbers may also find bolt-clipping somewhat challenging in a spot or two.Climb up a moderate move and clip the first bolt just off of the ledge, and get immediately into the thick (and thin) of things with the first crux, which consists of getting to and clipping the second bolt. Gillett ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO