The Morning Poos 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Kevin Capps |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Kevin Capps on Jun 10, 2011 |
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Kevin, putting some bolts in on lead.
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Description The morning poos! This route is a lot of fun whether you're looking to get your first lead, warm up, or doing some climbing to get the morning started. Tricky movements lead to good stances where you can plan out your next move.
Location This is currently the leftmost route on the wall.
Protection 8 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.
Mary Tashkin sneaking one in before the deluge. P...
| Laura, proving the myth wrong that girls don't Poo...
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| Comments on The Morning Poos |
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By Kevin Capps From: Golden, CO Jun 10, 2011
| On this route, there are a few places where you can step on a ledge or pull a strenuous move. The route is rated by using the ledges, but the beginning could be a lot harder if you want a little extra challenge. It's a lot of fun! |
By Tzilla Rapdrilla Jul 29, 2011
| Nice route, but the top anchor was not in the greatest condition yesterday. Both anchor bolts only had one quick link each, a situation that will totally ruin a rope if used for lowering. There may have been carabiners originally that some moron snatched. I added quicklinks to both anchors, so things should be better now, and then it started to rain. The other routes looked nice too. |
By Kevin Capps From: Golden, CO Jul 29, 2011
| That's great! Thanks for adding those, it's good to have some help on that wall :). I usually rappel when I lower that. Are the links you added stainless steel? Anyway, thanks for your help and I am glad you liked the route! |
By Tzilla Rapdrilla Jul 29, 2011
| I think the links I had are plated steel & I wrenched them down as tight as I could. I don't think that there would be any mixed metal stress corrosion issues for the links as nothing is under stress like a bolt and hanger are. I would think that even rapping thru single link would foul your rope when you pulled it though. Even the Fixe' single rings suck despite their attempt to change the angle of the hanger. Also, a place called Pambina has very good prices on quick links & let me know if you need help locating them. I hope to be able to enjoy the other routes someday soon when it finally quits raining. |
By KCP From: Eldorado Springs, CO Apr 21, 2013 rating: 5.8
| I warmed up on the route, this morning, and noticed that both links were rusting on the inner surface that seats the rope. They might be lower grade 400 series stainless, in which case they should be upgraded. Rapping is better, although almost no one does it. Most people lower on the links, so better to set them up for that, imo. Fun warmup. |
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