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The Moonstone

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36 Views of Lone Mountain S 
Across the Globe T 
Blue Moon S 
Blue-Eyed Sandbagger S 
Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get, The S 
Feldspar Route T 
Flake Route T 
Floating World S 
Lunar Land T 
Stargazer S 
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Zircon Encrusted Geezers S 

The Moonstone 


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Page Views: 8,320
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" on Dec 27, 2006
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Description 

A WAYYY out-of-the-way crag with easy (1 min.) walkup access from a high-clearance vehicle. Excellent low-angle to steeper slabbing in a mountain oasis in the high desert.


Getting There 

High clearance mandatory, 4 WD nice. Take the Agate Flats road exit N about 5 mi past Split Rocks. Then take a GOOD topo or BLM map. The "roads" shown in Lander Rock are not much better than wagon ruts across the prairie. Deep sand in places, narrow, and lots of sagebrush.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Moonstone:
Blue Moon   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 3 pitches, 600'   
Flake Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Stargazer   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches   
Blue-Eyed Sandbagger   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in The Moonstone

Featured Route For The Moonstone
top of pitch 2

Feldspar Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  WY : Sweetwater Rocks : The Moonstone
This low angle route follows ~500 feet of flaring crack/seam. Climb until the end of your (60m) rope and a perfect anchor crack magically appears every time. Start pitch 3 by either stepping out onto easy slab or staying inside a more difficult, but more secure chimney. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Local Information for The Moonstone
Photos of The Moonstone Slideshow Add Photo
Moonstone Topo, current to 12/2009
BETA PHOTO: Moonstone Topo, current to 12/2009
Top of the Moonstone.  There are some short trad climbs up here, namely a 10b corner and a 12ish offwidth.
Top of the Moonstone. There are some short trad c...
Comments on The Moonstone Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 20, 2013
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Feb 5, 2009

Over the last 2 years, Ed DeLong and I have put up several more low angle face/friction climbs here, mostly 60m pitches with Fixx 3/8" bolts and Fixx rappel ring anchors, up to 10b. There are about 20 routes on this stone now. There is a topo at Wild Iris in Lander to sort it all out.

By Umph!
Mar 28, 2009

20 routes now??
Damn, sorry to hear it bob.

By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Mar 31, 2009

camerones: I'm a little sorry too when I look at the amount of money we invested in drills and bolts, but, hey, that's the cost of existence. There's still room for more lines out there. We focused on the water runnels mainly, because they needed so little cleaning, but outside the runnels, with some brushing and whatnot, that's where the hard stuff is, at least I think so. It looks pretty intimidating anyway. Check it out and let me know how hard you think those routes are. Ed and I are really terrible at rating stuff so all that stuff might be a easier than we think.

By Umph!
Apr 1, 2009

bob -
I think you need to change all of the climbs to show "sport", rather than "trad" in the title/info.
I'll head in late spring for my Granite's fix, and should have time to check out some of your new slabbies.

By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Apr 2, 2009

The ones that Ed and I put up together were put up in the lead, with no previewing on rappel. Used a Bosch and when the stances were too thin, either put a Leeper hook on any edge present or hand drilled a shallow hole and perched on a pointed Leeper hook to haul the bag and get the bolt in. So, I suppose that quals as trad, not in the Tom Higgins mode but we thought, if we're gonna put these up, don't make it a horror show, you know, big bolts that are solid and not miles apart.

By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Apr 3, 2009

Sport friction....ehhh the new waaaaaaaaaaave. Ha!

By allen simons
May 2, 2009

Bob. I have been wanting to climb at sweetwater for some time and plan on doing it this year. Question. Are the horror stories obout the locals true or can I climb there with my wife and camp in safety? Also, it would be nice if you posted a photo with route locations. Allen

By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
May 5, 2009

The locals aren't really that bad, we project that image to keep people away while we scarf up all the routes. They are real sensitive about closing gates so if you go through any gates that are closed, close them behind you. Also, the Lankin Gap and Moonstone areas are closed to public access until about the end of May, the BLM grazing lease thing is from mid-april to about June something. It's really stupid, but that's the game we have to play here. You can go into Lankin dome from the west approach off Agate Flat Road and Nolan Pocket and be fine with the ranchers. Be real careful about rattlesnakes, they should be coming out now. Going into Moonstone and Lankin Gap can get real tricky driving if it rains. We've had a lot of rain here in the last two weeks and I'm not sure how the road is even into Nolan Pocket. I go out there with my wife and daughter all the time and feel fine about it, but I am 6'4", 180 lbs and not real touchy-feely. I would be sure to take warm clothes because of the unpredictabtility of Wyo weather. The Lander climbing book by Greg Collins has a good overview of the area and a map of the roads, so that's probably the best info....can get it at Wild Iris in Lander.

By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
May 5, 2009

I should also say that if you do get hassled by some rancher about access, just be polite and listen. It's serious for them out there: it's their living and they could care less about lectures on land use policy. Basically they pay fees to use the land out there (to BLM) and climbers don't. Guess what talks when BLM reviews land use policy? So we try not to rile the ranchers so we can continue to have access.

By allen simons
May 11, 2009

Bob, thanks for the info. My wife and I are very conscious about being sensitive to the land owners so no problem there. I do have the guide bood you mention, just curious about your new routes. Nice ploy scaring off us route squatters with the scary talk. Thats ok though, I have done the same thing in my back yard. Look forward to climbing there and maybe running into you. cheers, Allen. PS- I do have a secret place in Wy myself that I plan to put some routes on.

By burlap submariner
Nov 14, 2009

nice job on the new routes bob, I loved this area when I lived in wyo, used to live in lander so we would climb here all the time, back in 2003 a buddy and myself did two lines, one on the back side of the moon stone and one on lankins backside as well both 5.10 friction with pins in seams and minimal bolts. Its a great area and perfect if you want to get some solitude away from sinks canyon....keep up the psyche!!!!

Casey Bald
New Hampshire

By rking101
From: Evanston, WY
Aug 19, 2012

Had a great day here.. 1st Multi Pitch lead good pactice.

By Tyler Tylerson
From: The Swamp
Sep 20, 2013

Don't let the cows out the gate!