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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Our Piece of Real Estate T 
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Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 

The Moon Also Rises 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,337
Submitted By: Lon Black on Jan 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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O Dub tripod

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just a bit left of Swedin-Ringle is a seldom climbed route. The fact that it's rarely climbed isn't because of a lack of quality; it is because it's wide...that's right, we're talking offwidth techniques.

Location 

Left of Swedin-Ringle and right of Mystery machine and the unnamed 5.10.

Protection 

Up to a #6 Camalot. Be prepared for a little spice. The mental crux of moving out from the chimney onto the face requires a unique placement if you want it: put a knot in a thin dyneema runner, and slide the knot into the flared bottleneck. It's a somewhat blind placement, but it's bomber. Above this, you can place a 0.5 camalot, then 0.75, maybe two #1s. You could place a #2 toward the top if you wanted.


Photos of The Moon Also Rises Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper crack above the chimney section
Upper crack above the chimney section
Rock Climbing Photo: New anchor..
New anchor..
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the new anchors...
Looking down from the new anchors...

Comments on The Moon Also Rises Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Nelson
From: SLC, UT
Apr 3, 2011

There's a variation Lisa and I added that goes right into thin, then splitter hands and the other side of the broken pillar forming Sweedin' Ringle.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
May 1, 2012

Jason the splitter you two put up is 5 star.an a much safer end to the climb. i saw the old mess of burnt webbing an opted for yer route ... great work..
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2012

Agreed that the thin hands finish is the way to go. A 70m rope works fine for this. I took a new #6 camalot and it didn't fit anywhere. I recommend taking 2x new #5 camalots as the biggest piece. Place one to back up the drilled angle and another up higher in that OW instead of bumping one with you the whole way like I did and risk a bad fall if you come out with it in your hand. The chimney leading up to the drilled angle isn't very well protected, although maybe a huge big bro would fit. Then again, it's probably easy(er) than I made it if you don't suck at OW.
By Josh Tokioka
From: Seattle, WA
Feb 23, 2015

  • **Heads up***

I climbed this route this past weekend and went for the direct finish. When I got there, I tried to rebuild the anchor,because it was suneaten and worn. half of it promptly pulled out. What is left is a sketchy bolt and a blue metolius that is pretty jank.

  • **Do not go for the direct finish***, the anchor is quite janky at this point and not nearly as bomber. Anyways, the other finish looks much better.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Mar 6, 2015

Anchor is fixed on the direct finish .. They are at the top of the detached piller .. 6inch bolts bomber Q links ... The rope pulles nice an clean now ... Enjoy... DF

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