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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Strikes You're Out 
Air Swedin 
Battle of the Bulge 
Big Baby, The 
Black Corner 
Cal and Andy's Route 
Cave Route 
Christmas Tree 
Crack Attack 
Digital Readout 
Disco Machine Gun 
Dogs in Space 
Down in Albion 
Elbow Vices 
Fat Boy Slim 
Hole in the Wall 
Jagged Wedge, The 
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout 
Last Battle, The 
Like a Prayer  
Mayes, The 
Moon Also Rises, The 
Mystery Machine, The 
Our Piece of Real Estate 
Pigs In Space 
Quarter of a Man 
Railroad Tracks 
Ruby's Cafe 
Ruins Crack 
Think Pink 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle 
Unnamed RF hands to tips 

The Moon Also Rises 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 999
Submitted By: Lon Black on Jan 13, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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O Dub tripod


Just a bit left of Swedin-Ringle is a seldom climbed route. The fact that it's rarely climbed isn't because of a lack of quality; it is because it's wide...that's right, we're talking offwidth techniques.


Left of Swedin-Ringle and right of Mystery machine and the unnamed 5.10.


Up to a #6 Camalot. Be prepared for a little spice. The mental crux of moving out from the chimney onto the face requires a unique placement if you want it: put a knot in a thin dyneema runner, and slide the knot into the flared bottleneck. It's a somewhat blind placement, but it's bomber. Above this, you can place a 0.5 camalot, then 0.75, maybe two #1s. You could place a #2 toward the top if you wanted.

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Upper crack above the chimney section
Upper crack above the chimney section
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By Jason Nelson
From: SLC, UT
Apr 3, 2011

There's a variation Lisa and I added that goes right into thin, then splitter hands and the other side of the broken pillar forming Sweedin' Ringle.

By Devin Fin
May 1, 2012

Jason the splitter you two put up is 5 star.an a much safer end to the climb. i saw the old mess of burnt webbing an opted for yer route ... great work..

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2012

Agreed that the thin hands finish is the way to go. A 70m rope works fine for this. I took a new #6 camalot and it didn't fit anywhere. I recommend taking 2x new #5 camalots as the biggest piece. Place one to back up the drilled angle and another up higher in that OW instead of bumping one with you the whole way like I did and risk a bad fall if you come out with it in your hand. The chimney leading up to the drilled angle isn't very well protected, although maybe a huge big bro would fit. Then again, it's probably easy(er) than I made it if you don't suck at OW.