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Past the Hippie Wall
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Monument, The T 

The Monument 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kaandorp, Zabrok, De Maio F.F.A. Croft
Season: Late summer to mid-fall
Page Views: 2,992
Submitted By: chossmonkey on Nov 1, 2008

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This monster lives on a bluff overlooking the Geor...

Description 

The route EVERYONE wants to do, but it rarely gets done. This nearly horizontal 30 foot roof is massive and split by a fist/hand crack that pinches to fingers just before the lip.

Climb the chossy looking face until it is possible to start using the crack. The rock is more solid than it looks, but use caution.

Climb the easy, slightly overhanging crack up to the roof then take a deep breath before leaning back and seeing how far away the lip looks. After choking back down the vomit, fight the pump and work your way out to the lip. The crux is gaining the lip. Once established at the lip it is easy climbing to the anchor.

The route seeps most of the year and the black rock can be extremely slippery. Once it drys out, the crack usually needs a light brushing the first time out it.

This route is best cleaned by aiding it on toprope. Some people just leave the roof fixed and pinkpoint. Knock at least a letter grade off if you do this.

Location 

At the far end of the cliff. 5-10 min from the B-MW. The second you see it you will know you are at it.

Protection 

Cams up to #4 Camalot with doubles of the 3&4 sizes. A double of the #2 size can be useful for cleaning purposes. There are a few fixed wires on the section before the roof that are asked to be left in place. Lower from the anchor.


Photos of The Monument Slideshow Add Photo
Slaying the beast, Nathan Kutcher redpointing The Monument. The Monument is one of the biggest roof cracks around at 30 feet of nearly horizontal climbing. A must do for the roof crack affectionado. Photo by Neil Gowan
Slaying the beast, Nathan Kutcher redpointing The ...

Comments on The Monument Add Comment
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By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Dec 9, 2008

Did this as an aid climb sometime around 1997; great fun! There wasn't an anchor so we had to go pretty far back into the woods to find suitable anchors. It was pretty obvious why the free crux was right at the lip where it seemed you would have to use finger locks and cut your feet loose to swing them around so you were pointed feet first. The rest of the crack seemed to have pockets on the inner walls (it is limestone after all) that would be hard to find, but once you knew where they were they would be very helpful.