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The Grendel
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The Monster Mash 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kirk Miller & Mark Rolofson, 2010
Page Views: 1,035
Submitted By: J. Broussard on Aug 1, 2011

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Doug pulls past the crux up high. The holds befor...

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>


Climb up to a ledge & the 1st bolt. Follow an easy wide crack to a ledge. Pull over a small overlap on the right, past the 4th bolt. Wander up to a ledge and the 6th bolt. Climb a steep face past 2 bolts to a long narrow ledge. Traverse 10' left and reach the 9th bolt. A short vertical face leads to a roof. Move left on a horizontal crack to where the roof get smaller. Pull over the roof on jugs. Move right to the anchor.


This is the farthest route on the right on the Southeast face of the Grendel.


10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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By Matt Harper
Aug 1, 2011

What a tremendous route! This climb is not for the faint of heart 5.8+ lead climbers. The panoramic views once at top are worth the gray hairs. There is a 5.10 on the left side of this face which is better suited for a warm up before this 5.8.
By stickit
Sep 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The last moves up and around the last bolt feels 10b/c.
By Ramo D
Jun 8, 2014

Climbed this today and the moves don't seem out of line with 5.8ish, but the sequences are tricky. Getting around the 2nd roof was a bit of a puzzle, and then the last move to the anchors takes commitment. Warm-up on other routes before taking this one on.
By teece303
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Aug 25, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Don't warm up on this route: even better, just don't climb it.

I really loved everything I climbed on the Grendel, until I got to this. A goofy, wandering line with at least one clip placed to hurt a shorter climber. A goofy, out of character traverse to pull a roof that is nowhere near the universe of 5.8 climbing, topped off by a rap or lower that makes cleaning the route a pain.

And then the rating is sandbagged enough that a 5.8 climber could hurt themselves. Bummer of a route. Especially considering the respect I have for the route developers.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This line reminds me of that ol' saying: Short people climb, tall people reach.

Def. sandbagged (the 5.9 Mother Grendel just to the left felt a full grade EASIER, and it was wet...). Def. an ankle breaker, too, if'n you blow a couple of the crux clips. I'm tall so had no problems, but my short(er) partner had a real nasty time of it inna couple of places.
By skye bacus
From: Denver, CO
Sep 14, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Super fun route with really neat roofs.

If you are less than 6ft tall, this is a 10a minimum. The last roof is comparable to some 10b's. There are tiny edges for feet, and you pull up on a left locked off crimp to high crimps on the right, while basically smearing. It might be much easier if you can just reach the good holds, which happen eventually, but if you are shorter, you are going to have to work up several crimps until you can maybe throw a right heel up. Very fun but definitely NOT a 5.8+.

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