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|Submitted By:||lee hansche on Nov 28, 2011|
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From: New Hampshire
Nov 28, 2011
|and I always thought this place was just a myth...|
By bradley white
Aug 22, 2012
Did I post a climb without posting the area in 2010? Anyway, there are five and maybe six routes in this area. Four or five are on the Monolith itself. I believe Chris did three routes on the east side besides retro bolting the Monolith route. One route (5.9-10) is on the wall west of Monolith that ascends a beautiful black water streak until below the woods. It looks like access to the woods is possible above the anchors. Its got some length to it. At least 80ft maybe more. Bolted and a good route. I have seen it close up but have not climbed it. This route and the others of Chris Buckley were done 2005-6. Route descriptions are overdue for the Monolith. I won't intrude on Chris Buckley's climbs beyond a couple of definite routes he did I know exactly where they go and the grade. I don't know the names or if he named them. We were alike about not naming our routes in obscure areas.
By bradley white
Aug 14, 2015
Take NW passage trail pass B.B. Buttress and head up towards 'A Very Nice Crack'. Before the crack go left skirt cliff to woods. Up ahead right are two big ramp boulders are the trail up of the climbers trail. It soon goes right at cairn onto ledges. The ledges are 5.0 for a rope length. No rope needed. Open south facing view. Trail is hard to see from lack of use. Landmark is fissure is the trail up and the rest of it is slabs to the woods again. The Monolith can be seen through the trees and its summit is by stacked logs as steps to access it.
Going from the summit walking down is very intimidating because of the 150+ drop off 2000 feet up. Where the bolts are is at the bottom of the tongue or tip of rock bolted. Much better to be prepared to clip gear before going to the bolts. One bolt zinc plated and two stainless.
Preferable to rappel and not get lowered because of rope drag over a sharp edges. Have to have your act together to top rope here. Don't try anything unless your sure you're going to get back up.
Yellow Knife has a gully on the left and one on the right. Going up on the right gully goes to the forked gully by Monolith. The left gully of Monolith is dangerous scrambling to nowhere. The right gully has trees and is wooded at its top to the summit of Monolith.
Buckley's Arete start can be reached off of the right gully where Monolith Buttress meets the ground. Traverse left over slab to last tree before the drop off into left gully. Serious place and being roped up before getting here is highly recommended. One eye bolt. Before the hardest part of the right gully halfway up there is a ramp break in the wall goes up to anchor bolts for a few routes. It goes no pro fifteen feet of awkward goings at 5.7? These gullies suck. Take the Mountaineers Trail.