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Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brazier Food T 
Chili Dog T 
Double Delight T 
Faith Healer T 
Five Tree T 
Foot Massage, The T 
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 
Gomez T 
Leap Erickson T 
Leap of Faith T 
Leap Year Flake T 
Look Before You Leap T 
Lurch T 
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 
Morticia T 
Norm S 
Pat Adams Dihedral T 
Snake Oil T 
Tabby Tree T 
Tofutti T 
Toxic Waltz T 

The Mojus (aka Slushie) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rondo Powell & Jo Bentley, 1988
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: "The Mojus" (aka Slushie). Photo by Blit...

Description 

This route climbs a smooth slab near the center of the left side and features some difficult smears at the crux. The only gear needed is quickdraws but this isn't a sport route as you'll find out...although perhaps a sport route by J. Tree standards. Two single rope raps from anchors will make it down.

Not a great route but it's long, has some good moves throughout it's length and is rarely done. This is just one of several routes to sample at the lesser known left side of the D. Q. Wall. Two stars out of five.

Location 

Climbs a smooth slab just down and left from Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family).

Protection 

8 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")


Photos of The Mojus (aka Slushie) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A. Addams Family B. Mojus C. Morticia
BETA PHOTO: A. Addams Family B. Mojus C. Morticia

Comments on The Mojus (aka Slushie) Add Comment
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By MAR
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'd bring some nuts or cams (small - med) to protect the runout at the top. There are placements in the crack to the left that you can make before committing to the final face moves to the rap anchors.
By Bob Gaines
Jan 29, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Climb a beautiful slab past 2 bolts (5.10b/c; well-protected at the crux) then run it out a bit on easier slab (5.7/8) to a steeper section with 3 closely-spaced bolts (5.10+). At the 5th bolt traverse straight left past a 6th bolt over to a crack/corner (optional belay here to reduce rope drag).

On this crux traverse you'll encounter poor rock with disintegrating edges. This section is getting harder and harder as holds are getting stripped off and is now more like 5.11. From here climb past 2 more bolts up to a crack (1-inch CD). From here you can move right and up to the 2-bolt anchor for Addams Family (100-foot Rap.)

The original route followed the crack up to the top of Chili Dog, where you'll find a bolt anchor. From here, a <100-foot rap takes you down to the 2-bolt anchor used to descend from Leap Year Flake, then one more (<100 foot) rappel gets you to the ground.

Pro: 8 bolts, gear to 3 inches.

FA: Rondo Powell, Joe Bentley, and Bob Gaines, 1988

The Morticia variation (5.10d) moves right for the 5th bolt, joining Addams Family for its top section. This variation avoids the flakey upper section of Mojus, for a higher quality pitch.

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