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Unsorted Routes:

The Misunderstanding 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave anderson, Randal Grandstaff 1975
Page Views: 4,099
Submitted By: J. Thompson on May 8, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Mo crushing p-2 of The Misunderstanding.

Description 

The Misunderstanding starts about 50' left of Mazatlan. Look for a crack in a corner running through dark varnished rock.Pitch 1- climb easy ground, up slightly sandy white rock. Aim for the obvious cracks on the right side of the corner. Traverse left under the roof and pull over the top, onto the belay ledge, belay from 2 good bolts(70'- 5.9).Pitch 2- The meat of the route!! Climb the obvious varnished crack that you've been admiring!! At the top of the crack is another white roof, climb right under the roof to reach another short wide section. Once you reach the corner of the roof you'll see the next anchor, which is semi-hanging.To descend rappel the route with 1 rope(50M).

Protection 

SR- doubles in the 3 TO 4.5" size's


Photos of The Misunderstanding Slideshow Add Photo
Tybo following "The Misunderstanding".
Tybo following "The Misunderstanding".
Spring 2005
Spring 2005
Jonny on P-1 of The Misunderstanding. Awesome route!
Jonny on P-1 of The Misunderstanding. Awesome rout...
Fun climbing down low on pitch one
Fun climbing down low on pitch one
The Misunderstanding
BETA PHOTO: The Misunderstanding
Jonny leading up pitch 2 of "The Misunderstanding" on the first day of summer, June 21st, 2005.
Jonny leading up pitch 2 of "The Misunderstanding"...
The second pitch has no dull moments. I love this climb!
The second pitch has no dull moments. I love this ...
Jonny on P-1 of The Misunderstanding. One of my favorite routes in BVC.
Jonny on P-1 of The Misunderstanding. One of my fa...
Momentary reprieve from the fist jams and liebacking
Momentary reprieve from the fist jams and liebacki...

Comments on The Misunderstanding Add Comment
Show which comments
By meo
Nov 7, 2006

These two pitches can be done in one and you can just reach the (easy to downclimb) start with a 70 meter rope from the top. You can easily place four to five #3 Camalots two 3.5s and two #4s or you'll need to keep bringing the pro with you.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

really good and very exciting with a single rack!
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 16, 2008

This climb is good and by liebacking you can avoid any of the usual offwidth trashing techniques.
By smassey
From: CO
Apr 3, 2009

kinda takes the fun out of it, doesn't it now?
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you're offwidthing this fist crack, you're doing it wrong. Ha!

Anyway, three #3 camalots work well for this, two number 4s are sufficient, and a 70m line works really well. A great, not to be missed climb if you're in the area.
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Jan 11, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We were able to get down from the upper anchor with one single 70M rope rappel. It required some easy 4th class down climbing.

The 2nd pitch corner will take Black Diamond #3s or #4s well.
By Cultivating Mass
Sep 3, 2012

The bolted anchors on this route were retro-anchors, courtesy Todd Swain. They were installed when Todd was putting in his nearby routes Perplexity and Miss Conception, original anchor atop P2 was fixed natural pro.

While attempting to switch out a homemade angle iron "cracked hanger" Swain hanger (so-called because they were made at home by Swain, and had cracks at the time of installation at the clip point-Swain still installed them) at the first belay, my party got the pleasure of snapping one of the 3/8 belay bolts at the threads. This is becoming a common occurance-the same experience was had two weeks ago on Triassic's P2 anchor, seems like Swain may have bought a bad batch of bolts at one point, or mixing metals has caused more galvanic corrosion than expected with the angle iron and cold shut hangers that were installed with these bolts. We did not bring the whole replacement kit, therefore the first anchor is one bolt currently, judging from the one beside I wouldn't trust it by itself.

Both anchors will be replaced with solid stainless very shortly. In the meantime, bring a 70M or swing right to the Miss Conception P1 anchor if you'd like to avoid a short low-fifth downclimb. This was replaced last year and is solid stainless. The mess it was before replacement made the Misunderstanding anchors look good...

UPDATE: Both anchor stations are replaced with bomber ASCA stainless. You can donate now if you're feeling thankful-
By Patrick Mulligan
Mar 16, 2013

How folks rate the a 2 star climb I simply don't understand. This thing is old school and classic!