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This route is a bit of a novelty, especially for Sugarloaf. It's all overhanging, slopey fingerlocks, with no feet. Embrace your inner campus-monkey, and go quick!
This is the left-trending, near-horizontal crack/rail just above the Dominion/Captain Fingers ledge. It's the one with all the fixed draws dangling from it.
Bolts, though you might want a #2 for the initial handcrack.
From: ABQ, NM
Jun 7, 2010
A #2 what??? friend or camalot
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Apr 21, 2011
Didn't climb this, but checked it out. Bolts are very close together - one could aid the traverse.