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The Twilight Zone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chaser, The S 
Execution S 
Freedom Fries S 
Mind and the Matter, The S 
Shadow Play S 

The Mind and the Matter 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Eric Schmeer (12/08)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,664
Submitted By: AOSR on Dec 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Kirk workin' towards the crux (redpoint, FA).

Upper Canyon access closed - 8p Mar. 22 - 5p Mar. 28 MORE INFO >>>

"You unlock this door with the key of imagination. Beyond it is another dimension - ... a dimension of mind." 

Climb a short slab past one bolt to the base of the roof. Move right through two bolts to the crux and ascend the dihedral. Step right onto the prow, move up and left using unique holds. Traverse left and face climb the left side of the large roof.

Location 

First route on the leftmost roof system. Just left of Freedom Fries.

Protection 

12 bolts and some change for the 2 bolt anchor. Use long slings on the 8th and 9th bolts to minimize drag.


Photos of The Mind and the Matter Slideshow Add Photo
Tom just after the roof, 6-28-09.
Tom just after the roof, 6-28-09.
Draws tend to hang free in the Twilight Zone....
Draws tend to hang free in the Twilight Zone....
Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Topo.
Kristin Knudson high on the route.
Kristin Knudson high on the route.

Comments on The Mind and the Matter Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Bolt
From: Lakewood
Apr 15, 2009

Very fun climb. Route finding seem to be the demise of my onsight attempt. Can't wait to get back and tick off the rest the routes here.
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

The upper headwall was very tricky for me. Seems to be essential to traverse low then get on the arete ASAP.
By Adam Keifenheim
Jul 11, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I hate to complain about a route, and Kirk has made amazing contributions to Clear Creek, and I appreciate anybody taking the time and money and effort to develop new rock in the canyon, but the wandering nature of this route isn't necessary. After the overhanging section, the bolt line could have gone more direct and skipped the two slab traverses (which would also reduce the massive rope drag and made for more consistent climbing). The upper arete is forced as there is a 5.3 dihedral within reach. The route is also very fractured, and we had a lot of rockfall.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Jul 13, 2015

That's quite a complaint for a guy who hates to complain! Perhaps you should go up there and fix it to your liking?
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAaaaaa... The smarmality continues!

So? Yeah...DOOO bring a few runners with you on this one; the line does wander quite a bit for just a handful of bolts. Also, my partner yesterday (Aug. 2, 2015) yanked off a chunk of mountain about the size of a prenatal horse. So be extra careful on these lines and wear plate armor....

Still, the line is probably worth doin'--if just the once.
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