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 ADVANCED
The Millstone

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment S 
Angle of Repose S 
Blockbuster T 
Bush Doctor T 
Calling All Karmas S 
Cat Juggling S 
Earthling S 
Eraserhead T 
Intelligient Life Form S 
Lead Balloon S 
Maize, The S 
Miller Time S 
Milling About T 
Millstone Slab T 
Moon Walk S 
Odd Get Even, The S 
Pencilneck T 
Personal Jesus S 
Private Hell S 
Stick Figure Stays Home S 
Stone Ground S 
Strong Arm With the Lads S 
Tie Die S 
Yuppie Love S 

The Millstone  


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Page Views: 18,108
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 12, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The Millstone, as seen from the Lake Blanche Trail...

Description 

An expanse of short but beautiful quartzite. This ribbon of happiness keeps the wanna-be's at bay by it's approach. It consists of mainly sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12b with edges, sidepulls, and pumpy climbing. The views from here are spectacular, both from the base, but more so from the top of the climbs.

Getting There 

Park at the S-curve. Take the trail to Lake Blanche. Don't cross the bridge, but continue up the faint trail, until you can cut across (right) to a large expanse of talus. Climb this talus attaining slabs that lead to the base of the wall. This talus is probably the worst I have ever encountered in the Wasatch.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

24 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',9],['5.11',10],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Millstone:
Millstone Slab   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R     Trad, 1000'   
Angle of Repose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Private Hell   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Yuppie Love   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Miller Time   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Eraserhead   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Stick Figure Stays Home   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 35'   
Strong Arm With the Lads   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Earthling   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
The Odd Get Even   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Milling About   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 60'   
Lead Balloon   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Stone Ground   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Moon Walk   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
The Maize   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 65'   
Calling All Karmas   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Millstone

Featured Route For The Millstone
Struggling with the lower face.

Personal Jesus 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Millstone
The last line of bolts off the ledge. Personal Jesus is an awkward climb down low, with the arete (I assume it is on) forcing you into reachy slopey sidepulls. Once you hit the horizontal crack, it becomes more straightforward technical face climbing. I felt the crux could have been at bolt 2 or attaining the anchors. There is deck potential on blowing bolt 3, so beware....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on The Millstone Add Comment
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By phUnk
Jun 4, 2007
Headed up to the Millstone on 6/2/2007 for the first time. The talus field was a solid warmup, even though we lost the trail on the way there. We managed to lose the trail on the way back, too, somehow.

I don't think we'll go back up there. The logistics of gearing up, belaying and general "moving around" on that slab are a real pain in the ass. The routes themselves are fun and unique, but you spend more time negotiating the slab and trying to keep your junk from rolling to the bottom.
By zoso
Aug 23, 2011
Ya, climbing outside is a bitch.