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The Millstone
Browning Klondike -20deg Sleeping Bag

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White Ice Dart Mid Length Putter 43

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment 
Angle of Repose 
Blockbuster 
Bush Doctor 
Calling All Karmas 
Cat Juggling 
Earthling 
Eraserhead 
Intelligient Life Form 
Lead Balloon 
Maize, The 
Miller Time 
Milling About 
Millstone Slab 
Moon Walk 
Odd Get Even, The 
Pencilneck 
Personal Jesus 
Private Hell 
Stick Figure Stays Home 
Stone Ground 
Strong Arm With the Lads 
Tie Die 
Yuppie Love 

The Millstone 


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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 12, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: The Millstone, as seen from the Lake Blanche Trail...

Description 

An expanse of short but beautiful quartzite. This ribbon of happiness keeps the wanna-be's at bay by it's approach. It consists of mainly sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12b with edges, sidepulls, and pumpy climbing. The views from here are spectacular, both from the base, but more so from the top of the climbs.


Getting There 

Park at the S-curve. Take the trail to Lake Blanche. Don't cross the bridge, but continue up the faint trail, until you can cut across (right) to a large expanse of talus. Climb this talus attaining slabs that lead to the base of the wall. This talus is probably the worst I have ever encountered in the Wasatch.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Millstone:
Millstone Slab   5.4 R     Trad, 1000 feet, Grade II   
Angle of Repose   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Private Hell   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Pencilneck   5.10c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Yuppie Love   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Miller Time   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Personal Jesus   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Strong Arm With the Lads   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Earthling   5.11a     Sport, 70 feet   
Stick Figure Stays Home   5.11a     Sport, 35 feet   
Eraserhead   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Lead Balloon   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Stone Ground   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
The Odd Get Even   5.11b     Sport, 60 feet   
Milling About   5.11b     Trad, 60 feet   
Moon Walk   5.11d     Sport, 70 feet   
The Maize   5.12a     Sport, 65 feet   
Calling All Karmas   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Millstone

Featured Route For The Millstone
Kip just before the crux.

Lead Balloon 5.11b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Millstone
Tricky crux that will leave you gasping for air if you blow the sequence....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Comments on The Millstone Add Comment
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By phUnk
Jun 4, 2007

Headed up to the Millstone on 6/2/2007 for the first time. The talus field was a solid warmup, even though we lost the trail on the way there. We managed to lose the trail on the way back, too, somehow.

I don't think we'll go back up there. The logistics of gearing up, belaying and general "moving around" on that slab are a real pain in the ass. The routes themselves are fun and unique, but you spend more time negotiating the slab and trying to keep your junk from rolling to the bottom.

By zoso
Aug 23, 2011

Ya, climbing outside is a bitch.