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L to R R to L Alpha
An expanse of short but beautiful quartzite. This ribbon of happiness keeps the wanna-be's at bay by it's approach. It consists of mainly sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12b with edges, sidepulls, and pumpy climbing. The views from here are spectacular, both from the base, but more so from the top of the climbs.
Park at the S-curve. Take the trail to Lake Blanche. Don't cross the bridge, but continue up the faint trail, until you can cut across (right) to a large expanse of talus. Climb this talus attaining slabs that lead to the base of the wall. This talus is probably the worst I have ever encountered in the Wasatch.
24 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Millstone:
Millstone Slab 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c R Trad, 1000'
Angle of Repose 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Private Hell 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Yuppie Love 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Miller Time 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Stick Figure Stays Home 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 35'
Strong Arm With the Lads 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Eraserhead 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Earthling 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 70'
Lead Balloon 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Stone Ground 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
The Odd Get Even 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 60'
Milling About 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 60'
Moon Walk 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 70'
Calling All Karmas 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For The Millstone
Calling All Karmas 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Millstone
A near impassable variation to Angle of Repose, Calling All Karmas is a short and intense, balance fest! Bouldery in nature and lacking left sided holds, the biggest crux may be finding a good sequence that doesn't pitch you off the arete. Starfish-magnet your way up the first three bolts using what ever you can; in other words, cling to the wall using all four points and hold on tight! Calling All Karmas is the short route on the arete and just right of ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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