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The Milky Way 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 360', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Andy Ross Paul Ross (alt leads) Gene Vallee. Sept 27th 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 13
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 6, 2012

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Dawn day two

Description 

An alpine approach to fine slab climbing. About a 30 min hike/scramble south from Two Fingers Canyon. See Topo.

When the upper mouth of the slot canyon is reached, climb up a short awkward chimney at about 5.7. Then scramble up and left to the obvious upper slabs with the prominent white streak.

P1) Follow the milky way past four bolts and a hand size cam in a pocket to double anchors. 160' 5.8.

P2) From the belay move out left and after 40' the angle eases. Straight up easy climbing to double anchors. 200' 5.5R no pro.

From belay scramble up and right to the summit and great views. Rap the route.

Location 

About 30 mins south of Two Fingers canyon. See Topo

Protection 

One 3" cam, Quick draws. Two 60m ropes


Photos of The Milky Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Serious business back at camp
Serious business back at camp
Rock Climbing Photo: The Gully approach.
BETA PHOTO: The Gully approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P2
Looking down P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul near top of P1
Paul near top of P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Gearing up at the mouth of the gully
Gearing up at the mouth of the gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Three Stooges on top
Three Stooges on top
Rock Climbing Photo: The gully struggle to the easy scramble to thye Mi...
The gully struggle to the easy scramble to thye Mi...
Rock Climbing Photo: A)Milky Way..
BETA PHOTO: A)Milky Way..
Rock Climbing Photo: Below P1 The Milky Way
Below P1 The Milky Way
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Starting P2
Paul Starting P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy on P1
Andy on P1
Rock Climbing Photo: 4th Class scramble to the summit
4th Class scramble to the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 near Belay
P1 near Belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping Off
Rapping Off
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Following P1
Paul Following P1
Rock Climbing Photo: A)The Milky Way.5.8.  B)Berghaus Red 5.8+. C)Airbo...
BETA PHOTO: A)The Milky Way.5.8. B)Berghaus Red 5.8+. C)Airbo...

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