The Milky Way
||Trad, 3 pitches, 360', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Andy Ross Paul Ross (alt leads) Gene Vallee. Sept 27th 2012|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||287|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Oct 6, 2012|
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An alpine approach to fine slab climbing. About a 30 min hike/scramble south from Two Fingers Canyon. See Topo.
When the upper mouth of the slot canyon is reached, climb up a short awkward chimney at about 5.7. Then scramble up and left to the obvious upper slabs with the prominent white streak.
P1) Follow the milky way past four bolts and a hand size cam in a pocket to double anchors. 160' 5.8.
P2) From the belay move out left and after 40' the angle eases. Straight up easy climbing to double anchors. 200' 5.5R no pro.
From belay scramble up and right to the summit and great views. Rap the route.
About 30 mins south of Two Fingers canyon. See Topo
One 3" cam, Quick draws. Two 60m ropes
Serious business back at camp
BETA PHOTO: The Gully approach.
Gearing up at the mouth of the gully
The gully struggle to the easy scramble to thye Mi...
BETA PHOTO: A)Milky Way..
4th Class scramble to the summit
BETA PHOTO: A)The Milky Way.5.8. B)Berghaus Red 5.8+. C)Airbo...