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S Crags
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Airborn to New Time Zone 
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Every Picture Tells a Story 
Glenfiddich Regrets 
Leaving America 
Milky Way, The 

The Milky Way 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 360', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Andy Ross Paul Ross (alt leads) Gene Vallee. Sept 27th 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 225
Submitted By: USBRIT on Oct 6, 2012
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Dawn day two

Description 

An alpine approach to fine slab climbing. About a 30 min hike/scramble south from Two Fingers Canyon. See Topo.

When the upper mouth of the slot canyon is reached, climb up a short awkward chimney at about 5.7. Then scramble up and left to the obvious upper slabs with the prominent white streak.

P1) Follow the milky way past four bolts and a hand size cam in a pocket to double anchors. 160' 5.8.

P2) From the belay move out left and after 40' the angle eases. Straight up easy climbing to double anchors. 200' 5.5R no pro.

From belay scramble up and right to the summit and great views. Rap the route.


Location 

About 30 mins south of Two Fingers canyon. See Topo


Protection 

One 3" cam, Quick draws. Two 60m ropes



Photos of The Milky Way Slideshow Add Photo
Serious business back at camp
Serious business back at camp
The Gully approach.
BETA PHOTO: The Gully approach.
Looking down P2
Looking down P2
Paul near top of P1
Paul near top of P1
Gearing up at the mouth of the gully
Gearing up at the mouth of the gully
Three Stooges on top
Three Stooges on top
The gully struggle to the easy scramble to thye Milky Way
The gully struggle to the easy scramble to thye Mi...
A)Milky Way..
BETA PHOTO: A)Milky Way..
Below P1 The Milky Way
Below P1 The Milky Way
Paul Starting P2
Paul Starting P2
Andy on P1
Andy on P1
4th Class scramble to the summit
4th Class scramble to the summit
P1 near Belay
P1 near Belay
Rapping Off
Rapping Off
Paul Following P1
Paul Following P1
A)The Milky Way.5.8.  <br />B)Berghaus Red 5.8+. <br />C)Airborn to a New Time Zone 5.7 <br />D)Spidermans day Off 5.6 <br />E)Two Fingers Canyon <br />F)Every Picture Tells a Story.5.7
BETA PHOTO: A)The Milky Way.5.8.
B)Berghaus Red 5.8+.
C)Airbo...
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