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Feudal Wall (Right Side)
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The Mikado 

5.6

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Unknown Climber nears the top of The Mikado. Phot...

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Description 

This is a fun route with a crux about 10' off the deck. Good protection make this an excellent choice for the budding leader.

Gear anchor.

To descend, walk quite a ways left along ledge system and downclimb 4th/low 5th class gully to rhe right of Swishbah.


Protection 

Light rack.



Photos of The Mikado Slideshow Add Photo
$eth getting set at the base of Princess (left) and The Mikado (right).

$eth getting set at the base of Princess (left) an...

Making a valiant attempt.

Making a valiant attempt.

Mike Kurilich at the top of his first lead 1987 - Mikado

Mike Kurilich at the top of his first lead 1987 - ...

Albert Ramirez  10-16-10

Albert Ramirez 10-16-10

Albert Ramirez  10-16-10

Albert Ramirez 10-16-10

The Mikado, beta photo.

BETA PHOTO: The Mikado, beta photo.

Dec. 26, 2012  Erin F. laybacks the first section off the ground

Dec. 26, 2012 Erin F. laybacks the first section ...


Comments on The Mikado Add Comment
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By Brian Reynolds
Feb 10, 2003

You can also descend between The Mikado and Crown Jewels by crawling through a small hole and down a couple of wide chimneys. It will drop you a lot closer to your packs, but it's a bit of a grunt and it may not save you much time.

By Kelly
Jun 5, 2003

Absolutely stellar.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 24, 2003
rating: 5.6

The start's a little tricky, a fun route, too short. Should've read the descent beta, ended up climbing over the back and walking around (d'oh!)

By Georg
Dec 5, 2004
rating: 5.7

Short but felt a bit stiff for a 5.6. Thanks, Skip!

By Jeffrey Davis
Dec 21, 2004
rating: 5.6

Top roped this route with a #11 BD hex #2 camalot, and 2 30' slings, one sling cinched around a rock up top. Mostly large pro needed for TR. There is and easy ascent to set the top rope about 20' left of the duchess, once on top, just keep going over til you get to the climb. Nice crack climb!

By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.7

A #4 camalot protects the first move. We descended by traversing to climber's left across an exposed ledge system to a bolted rap station.

By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Mar 16, 2009

Fun short route with the crux at the start of the open book. Above the crux it's a blast and has opportunities for hand/foot jams and holds outside the crack as well.

By Brandontyrrell
Dec 27, 2009
rating: 5.7

Great hand jams on the upper section, super fun climb!

By attila
Jan 25, 2010

This is the best 5.6 I've climbed at J Tree.

By Jonesey
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.7

A nice little climb. You can get off the Feudal Wall from the top of Mikado(and avoid further up- or down-climbing thru nasty-looking chimneys) by traversing West (left) on ledges and through a slot to the belay/rap anchors at the top of Monaco; a short (~60ft) and steep rappel brings you quickly back to the ground.