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Start atop the obvious block. Do a couple of Lie back moves(or jam straight in) to get into the short squeeze chimney. Move right out the small roof and lie back up the flake. Pull over a bulge and into a bottomed and flared crack. Pull onto a small ledge. Climb the runout face up and to the right, there is one 1/4 inch bolt with no hanger just before the anchor.
Approximately 30ft to the right of The Headache.
1-2 sets cams from gree Alien to #1 camalot. ! each #2-4. At least 1 nut to sling the hangerless bolt.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 28, 2010
This is a fun route to do to add a pitch when you climb the Headache.
The anchor bolts need to be updated.
By Aaron Miller
Oct 4, 2014
Agree with Josh. I thought this route was great, really fun and interesting climbing, but I wouldn't recommend anyone do this route until the anchor is replaced. Also, you might as well replace the old 1/4" bolt protecting the crux move, and probably should lower it 3 feet so you can actually clip it before you do the move. Wish I had my bolt kit with me, but alas I live too far away to expect to come back to this soon.