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Start atop the obvious block. Do a couple of Lie back moves(or jam straight in) to get into the short squeeze chimney. Move right out the small roof and lie back up the flake. Pull over a bulge and into a bottomed and flared crack. Pull onto a small ledge. Climb the runout face up and to the right, there is one 1/4 inch bolt with no hanger just before the anchor.
Approximately 30ft to the right of The Headache.
1-2 sets cams from gree Alien to #1 camalot. ! each #2-4. At least 1 nut to sling the hangerless bolt.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 28, 2010
This is a fun route to do to add a pitch when you climb the Headache.
The anchor bolts need to be updated.