The Middle Way  5.11-

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Type:  Trad, TR, 50 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  ?? Submitted By:  Ben F. on May 21, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: A view of The Middle Way...stay off the 5.6-5.8 se...

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Description 

Contrived, so put on the blinders and resist the urge to go off route to truly experience this line. The crux is a thin start between the base of Dangleberry Crack and Lunch Lady Land, using the thinnest holds to earn the grade. Good pro above the start, then take the slopey slabby lichen covered path of most resistance, avoiding any and all easier climbing to either side. Some big and committing moves here and there, and gear placements are few and far between. Finish by running out the thin face between Dangleberry Crack and the Lunch Lady crack and top out in and belay on the tree branches.

Location 

Start is about two feet to the left of the start to Lunch Lady Land, and about three feet to the right of the start of Dangleberry Crack. Check the topo on the front page, path just follows the gap between the two.

Protection 

Lead: Light rack, small cams mostly, a few micro stoppers, long cord or webbing for tree branch belay.

Top rope: Lots and lots of webbing for the tree branches. Large cams to set up a directional for the belay on the Lunch Lady crack