|Type:||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 170', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A3- [details]|
|FA:||Bill Duncan, Steve Anderton|
|Season:||spring or fall|
|Submitted By:||Bill Duncan on Aug 24, 2006|
|Comments on The Middle Finger Tower||Add Comment|
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May 10, 2007
|Bill - Was the bolt to the right of the "large square block" placed on the first ascent???|
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
Nov 6, 2007
|The only fixed gear that we might have left were the rap anchors on the summit. I think they were drilled pins. This was in '92, so it's a bit fuzzy now. Back then we only placed drilled pins, not bolts, so that thing must be a retro.|
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
May 1, 2008
Climbed this last fall. Nice route, up a bizarre feature. Part of the second pitch may have fallen down since the first ascent. The bolt is perhaps a retreat bolt? Or a belay bolt, as the existing gear at this stance is not the best. Interesting rock; hard and very brittle, like old china.
Here's what we found: Start in dihedral on southwest corner.
1. Climb crack in a dihedral, 5.8, to a small ledge, then a couple aid moves to a ledge/shoulder. Belay in rubble field, from pins and a single bolt (30', 5.8, A1).
2. Mantel onto block, then gain a left-angling crack that starts 15 feet above the bolt (tricky). There were no existing pin scars in this crack. Work up and left to 10-foot dihedral. Up this to rubbly shoulder. Build complex belay (might be safer, but less comfy, to belay from bomber cams in the dihedral below) (50', A3-).
3. Up to small roof, then short steep thin crack to mantel onto loose ledge. Angle left and up, past two drilled holes (pins in horizontals bypass the scary-looking holes), to free moves onto the summit (30', A2. 5.7).
Great summit. Lying on one's belly and peering over the northwest edge of the summit is highly recommended.
Gear: 4 Toucans, 4 Knifeblades, 6 Lost Arrows, 3 Baby Angles, 2 Standard Angles, 3 Leeper z-pins, 2 sets of cams from tiny to 3.5 inch. 1 #4 Friend, 1 #4 Camalot. Selection of nuts.
Mar 25, 2010
|Not so heavy on the iron. I only wacked in three pins - toucan, thick kb and a la. Hand placed small angles for the finish were handy - and a bathook. Would probably go clean but you'd be lookin' at a ledge fall if you blew it. Tricky climbing, great location.|