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 ADVANCED
3. The Mid Section

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruin T 
building steam with a grain of salt T 
Coloring Book T 
Dead Easy T 
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 
Face Dances  T 
Fifty Center T 
L' Anniversaire T 
Littoral Zone, The T 
Livin' Easy T 
Pencilneck Geek T 
Rhino Skin T 
Rubberneck T 
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 
True Colors T 
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

3. The Mid Section  


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chinos on May 19, 2009  with updates from Robert Hall
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Description 

This is the middle portion of the slab. The slab runs the farthest down into the woods in this section as well.

Getting There 

The current ( 2014) path to the cliff ends at the far right-end of the “Mid-Section” and the far left-end of the “Perfect Wave Section/”Area”. For the Mid-Section climbs of: Building Steam, Pencilneck Geek, Rubberneck, and Littoral Zone “you are there”. These climbs start, essentially, where the path meets the slab.
To get to the Mid-Section climbs: Face Dances, 50-Center, Coloring Book, Bruin, True Colors, L’Anniversaire, Rhino Skin, Dead Easy, and Livin’ Easy [As well as the path to the Height-of-Land section(area)], use a path that starts to your left at a flagged tree with cairn a few feet in. Hike up a few feet, then over about 100 ft, then down 50-75 ft to the “toe” of the cliff. (In years past the approach “path” to these climbs branched off shortly after the stream crossing. This old approach has suffered from much blowdown and cannot be recommended!)

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.8 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 3. The Mid Section:
Face Dances    5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 200'   
Browse More Classics in 3. The Mid Section

Featured Route For 3. The Mid Section
The Pencilneck flake(s), nearly at the top of the photo, and 6-8 ft right of the inside corner of "Building Steam"

Pencilneck Geek 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NH : Kancamagus Crags : ... : 3. The Mid Section
I'm not sure how anyPitch#2 that moves right from the top of the flakes/corner "goes" at only 5.2 (as some guidebooks purport), but the "Variation" as described is very nice and maintains grade interest. VERY close to a 3 star climb, if only there wasn't that slight bit of "ordinary" above "the move" on P1. START- Where the main path meets the slab, about 50 ft up is a long, arching overlap. From the left end of the overlap the climb "Building Steam" climbs the first weakness, a wide, s...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

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